TurboFord

Full Version: No Start Challenge, Free BEER
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Well I saw someone else do this and get alot of help. So I figured If I want my car to be running by This week, I better do the same. So I'll send a $15 Money order to the person that figures out what is wrong. That should get you a 18 case. anyways, here it is.

Car won't start. The car doesn't get any fuel. It does have spark. The fuel pump doesn't turn on. I replaced my Fuel pump relay and my EEC power relay. Now, according to my cliton's manual. The EEC Power relay won't work(click) if my fuel pump relay isn't working. My EEC relay does click, So I would assume the relay isn't the problem. Now some of you will probally say check the inertia switch. I check that. It works fine. I even replaced it just to make sure. Everything is ok in that area, it isn't tripped or anything. I also replaced my fuel fiter, So thats not the problem. I kind of messed up my ignition switch when I pull in my clutch pedals. I let the column hang by it. So I thought, maybe this is my problem. So I replaced that. No luck there. So I figured, I'll just jump my pump and mark sure that works and see if she starts. So I jump the fuel pump and try to start it, still no luck. There is fuel going into the rails, can't tell you what the fuel presuure is because don't have a tester. By I pulled the line going to the fuel rail to see if it will spray the fuel. It does. SO therefore leaves me to believe the injectors aren't sparying. IF I SPRAY STARTING FLIUD RIGHT INTO THE INTAKE, SHE STARTS RIGHT UP, THEN LIKE 2 SECONDS LATER, SHE DIES. So the prolem for sure is lack of fuel! and yes, there is gas in the tank.

I am using a BBK 255lph in-tank pump
Stock fuel fiter
it's a 1987 Mustang LX(2.3)
1987 Merkur xr4ti engine.
LA3 Computer.

Also, The car was running fine. I drove it one night, then the next day she wouldn't start.

PLEASE get her running, there is a car show I want to goto this week and I need to be able to smoke those maro's!
Hmmmm,I can`t tell you why but are you sure the injs are squirting fuel into cyl? Seems like you have fuel all the way up to them & that`s it.Never mind,just re-read your post & you`re @ the injs now.

[This message has been edited by Jon J (edited 11-18-2001).]
If you've got decent pressure at the rail (use a tire gauge - should be about 40 psi), I'd say either your injectors are clogged (search the archives to find out how to clean 'em) are they aren't getting any signal (hold a screwdriver to one of 'em and put your ear on the handle while cranking with the ign on - should hear it clicking). [Image: smile.gif]

C'ya - RAY

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Former 2.3T courier (blow-thru carbed) & soon turbo ranger
Ok, I'm pretty sure it is the injectors, But I doubt they are clogged. I think it would be rare for them to all clog at one and the car not start. I always put injector cleaner in the tank too. My guess would be the injectors aren't getting a signal. But remember that my fuel pump doesn't turn on when I turn the key. So it can't just be the injectors aren't getting a signal. I'm almost sure my injectors aren't getting a signal. There has to be a computer/elec. Problem somewhere, the question is where and how do I fix it.
I`ve read posts about fuel pumps not being grounded properly,is your`s?
Someone also said this to me, I believe it is. They said if I ground the TAN wire going to my fuel pump relay it should clikc. When I ground it, it clicks. SO I would assume that it is grounded fine. I used a test light to ground it. Light lights up once it is grounded and the relay also clicks.
The f/pump relay can "click" and not pass power to the pump if power from the ignition sw isn't there for it to switch. Check to see if one of the wires (can't remember the color) at the relay plug is "hot" with the key on. If it is, check the wire that feeds the pump (pink w/blk stripe, I think) to see if the relay is switching the voltage. [Image: smile.gif]

C'ya - RAY

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Former 2.3T courier (blow-thru carbed) & soon turbo ranger
It has four wires, a Red one, Yellow(tan) one, Orange one, and a Pink one. The Orange one is Hot always. The red one only has power when the ignition is on and the inertia switch isn't tripped. Not sure on how the yellow works, something with the ignition switch? But anyway, all of those get power at the relay but the pink one. The pink one is the one coming off the relay and going to the pump, and no power there.
Just wanted to add that the fuel pump relay DOESN'T click when I turn the key. It only clicks when When i put the test light to the yellow(tan) wire, then the test light comes on.
The yellow (tan) wire is grounded by the EEC to energize the relay. Power to the relay coil comes from the ign sw thru the red wire. The orange wire is the power source for the pump which is supposed to pass thru the pink/blk wire when the relay "clicks". When you probe the test light to the tan wire, you're grounding the relay thru the filament of the test-light bulb like the EEC is supposed to do then everything is functioning properly. When this happens, does the f/pump run? If so, does the car start? Sounds like you need to hear from one of our resident EEC experts, like Jeff Korn. [Image: smile.gif]

C'ya - RAY

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Former 2.3T courier (blow-thru carbed) & soon turbo ranger
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