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1979 down draft turbo
#1

New to the site, I picked up a 79 LX notch with a 2.3 down draft turbo, looking for info, the carb is missing the choke, so I ordered a weeber, smog delete, what part of this set up do I need to keep, parts descriptions, tuning advise, Thx
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#2

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Does it actually run and make boost? If so, does it smoke or show a lack of oil on the dipstick? Those carbed "draw-thru" turbocharged Mustangs were plagued with laxidasical power and a high failure rate for the turbo seals (due to the vacuum exposed to the compressor housing). During my tenure as a heavy-line tech at various Ford stealerships during their "era", many would come into the service drive crop-dusting so bad that you could barely make out the car, lol. <shrug>
Placerville, California
(former)  '78 2.3T Courier w/blow-thru Autolite 2bbl carb ~ (current)  '87 2.3T Ranger w/PiMP’d EFI
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#3

(06-18-2025, 08:27 AM)TurboRay Wrote:  .
Does it actually run and make boost? If so, does it smoke or show a lack of oil on the dipstick? Those carbed "draw-thru" turbocharged Mustangs were plagued with laxidasical power and a high failure rate for the turbo seals (due to the vacuum exposed to the compressor housing). During my tenure as a heavy-line tech at various Ford stealerships during their "era", many would come into the service drive crop-dusting so bad that you could barely make out the car, lol. <shrug>

The car sat in a barn for 25 years, before I bought it last month, It has 78000 KM on it, Yes it runs, spools up & pulls hard 3000 to 4000 RPM, I'v run about 1000 KM & have burnt a liter of oil, Yes I'v had the smoke show happed a few times but only after I had a hard time starting it, its like its flooding itself out, I just got the weeber carb today. The stock carb has vacuum ports every where, the weeber only 3, what can I eliminate & what do I need to keep.I'v dialed it in with the vacuum gadge & running about 30 degrees timing, I'm willing to spend money, replace parts, or what ever it take to make it run, before I pull it out & put it in my 89 ranger, V8 & T5 & 8.8 sitting ready to go in. Any help is much apricated, THX
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#4

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Well....... congrats on finding a 1st-gen turbocharged Mustang w/o a blown/leaking compressor-shaft seal! Those "draw-thru" turbos have a special (carbon? DUNNO) seal that deals with vacuum better than "normal" turbos. If you live in a jurisdiction that doesn't have "smog nazis" (like I have to deal with in Californication), requiring the retention of the OEM anti-pollution systems...... you should be able to remove some of the vacuum & and boost-activated Hobbs-type switches and the hoses that attach thereto. 

As a former stealership "engine mechanic", I never had to deal with tune-related strategies of those setups ~ so I can't specifically address WHAT all those switches and electronic devices do. While some may be part of a timing-retardation strategy, others may only exist to lower emissions, but DUNNO! AFAIK, only the "power" circuit of the carb needs to be referenced to boost (requiring a small referencing hose from the carb to the pressurized portion of the manifold) ~ providing extra fuel commensurate with boost pressure. OTOH, fuel pressure doesn't need to be referenced to boost, as it would in a blow-thru configuration. 

I wuz wrong once B4 ~ BUT, as for "help" from the TF collective...... I'm relatively certain there are only a precious few members on this forum ("Anniversary-Edition" purists?) that have those OEM Ford draw-thru systems still intact. Sooo...... you may not find a whollotta help here.  But, GOOD LUCK! <thumbup>
Placerville, California
(former)  '78 2.3T Courier w/blow-thru Autolite 2bbl carb ~ (current)  '87 2.3T Ranger w/PiMP’d EFI
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