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1986 TC Project

(01-04-2021, 05:02 PM)Mikey97D Wrote:  Congratulations on hitting your goal!
Thank you.
417 RWHP & 378 lbft
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There was 2 body kits a FMS version and aftermarket. The aftermarket has a rear bumper skirt,... I have both.
1986 TurboCoupe and tons of Jeeps
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That is awesome; congrats on reaching your power goal. I apologize for missing it but what are the plans for the transmission and clutch swap?
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I have all the parts to complete the swap over to the Hanlon TR3650 stage 3 transmission. It probably won’t happen till sometime in May. There is a tack day in April at Limerock that I want to attend. I don’t want to chance running into an unexpected complication. Also, need some decent weather as I work on the car outside.
417 RWHP & 378 lbft
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How are you going to handle the input shaft issue with the TR3650? I wouldn't mind swapping a more robust transmission into my 88 but have heard mixed opinions on having the input shaft turned down to fit. I understand there's a bearing that works as well but having to swap that out every 3k-5k miles is a no go for me. Have you listed all these parts for that swap in this build thread already? I'm asking because if you did, I will go through it and find those posts before asking to be posted again. Thank you in advance for all the info.
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Hanlon turned down the input shaft to work with the stock pilot bearing. The parts to do the swap are listed somewhere in this post.
417 RWHP & 378 lbft
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Thank you; I found all the posts with the information. This is great. It's nice that Hanlon turned down the input shaft themselves
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I picked up a mint condition used Starrett Dial indicator to set my Quick Time bellhousing.  I have been reading and watching YouTube videos on how to dial in the bellhousing. Hopefully I got this figured out.   I would like to get the TR3650 transmission swap in before the next track day.

   

   

   

I can’t wait for spring. 

   
417 RWHP & 378 lbft
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It doesn't get any better than Starrett, TC! Just snap the magnetic base onto yer flywheel, flexplate or crank flange and "indicate" off the ID of the bell hole while rotating the crank. Don't forget that any reading needs to be "halved", b/c an off-center reading of .010 (for example) ~ is, in fact, only .005 "left"  on one side and .005 "right" on the opposite side. Sooooo........(in that example) you'd only need a .005 offset dowel to align the bell with the block's "crank tunnel" (main bore).  Wink
Placerville, California
(former)  '78 2.3T Courier w/blow-thru Autolite 2bbl carb ~ (current)  '87 2.3T Ranger w/PiMP’d EFI
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