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1986 TC Project

(12-06-2021, 01:41 AM)tcoupeturbo Wrote:  I just installed the supplied bolts (with) some lock tight and tightened them.  

As you probably know, Loctite™ doesn't add any strength to the bolt, the threaded hole, or their interface, Tony......it just
"glues" the threads, making it less likely for the bolt to loosen or back out.  <shrug>
Placerville, California
(former)  '78 2.3T Courier w/blow-thru Autolite 2bbl carb ~ (current)  '87 2.3T Ranger w/PiMP’d EFI
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I have been working with the folks at Dakota Digital on a way to allow the factory speedometer to work with the new TR3650 transmission. The speedometer on my TC is expecting a pulse rate of 8000 pulses per mile from the VSS sensor from a T5 transmission. The TR3650 transmission does not use a VSS sensor, it uses an OSS sensor that pulses at 32000 pulses per mile. The folks at Dakota Digital recommended their SGI-5E Universal Speed Interface.

The unit basically intercepts the signal from the speed sensor, scales the data and then sends it to the speedometer. The installation is fairly straightforward assuming you hav access to the factory wiring diagram. I pulled the instrument cluster and found the wire that feeds the speedometer and cruse control circuits. In my case it was a dark green wire with a white stipe. I cut the 2 wires about 2” from the plug and determined which one went back to the speed sensor. The other lead (same color wire) when to the cruse control circuit. I extended the speed control sensor wire and ran it to the Signal In terminal on the SGI-5E. In my application, I needed to run the return signal wire from the #3 terminal back to the speedometer plug & cruse control circuit.

I used a fuse tap on the radio fuse position to provide switched power to the SGI-5E. I had to add an inline power noise filter on the 12v power feed because the speedometer was jumping even when still. The noise filter corrected this issue. Lastly, I ran the ground lead from the box to the chassis ground where the speed sensor was factory terminated. Again in my case the ground was located where the center portion of the dash meets the tunnel on the drivers side.

Once the wiring was completed, I contacted Dakota’s technical line and they walked me through the programming. I tested the setup on jack stands confirm all is working. Now I need to fine tune the system to ensure accuracy. That’s the plan this weekend as is a change out of the transmission fluid. Hanlon recommended that I replace the break in fluid with Penzoil Synchromesh.

   

The location is only temporary until it’s dialed in.
417 RWHP & 378 lbft
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Here is Part 3 of my transmission swap.  My editing skills could use some help.  

https://youtu.be/ztN5G4TWa-k

Chronology this is a little out of sequence. Since this video, I have finished the clutch cable installation and installed the shifter and interior trim.  I ran into some issues shifting into 2 and 4th. I think the causes for the initial shifting problems were an improperly adjusted clutch cable  and an issue with the shift handle that I selected.  The Tri-Ax shift handle leans back which is causing the outer leather shift boot to be stretched while in 2nd & 4th.  I have a standard Pro 5.0 shift handle on order which is more upright.  

Also the transmission & clutch are still being broken in as Hanlon recommends 500 miles before  getting on they also recommended changing the fluid over to Penzoil Synchromesh.

This is the video that I took prior to the clutch cable adjustment. 

https://youtu.be/iocPEtXDGZg
417 RWHP & 378 lbft
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Since the above video, I adjusted the clutch quadrant and cable.  Also noticed the stock T5 shift handle on the Pro 5.0 shifter was hitting the shifter stops.  I purchased and installed a Steeda Tri-ax shifter thinking this would fix the issue. Unfortunately this caused a new issue. The Steeda shift handle leans back. When in 2nd or 4th it would tug on the outer leather shift boot.  To fix the new problem that I created, I purchase another shift handle. This time I went with a Pro 5.0 handle. This fixes the latest issue.  Now I need some favorable weather to test these changes out.

https://youtu.be/U0VFo-Ti7E0

https://youtu.be/6BKdl7geMw4
417 RWHP & 378 lbft
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I have been working on sorting out some stuff on the car to get it ready for my next track day.  I had to replace the tires as they were showing signs of some dry rot. I wound up purchasing some new Toyo R888R’s.

   

   

While doing some shake down runs, I discovered a new issue with the car.  The car developed an issue controlling boost in upper RPMs.  The gate would open around 18 psi at around 4500 rpm.  From there it would creep up to +/-22 psi at 6000, than skyrocket to 30 by 6500 RPM.  At that boost level, the motor developed a misfire which I think was a spark plug gap issue.

In previous posts, I documented how I had to re-work the downpipe to clear the V8 style bellhousing.  The previous configuration of the downpipe had the wastegate dumping back into the downpipe. The reworked downpipe has the 38mm gate dumping to atmosphere. This change along with the 3” straight piped mandrel exhaust must have eliminate back pressure after the turbo.  By doing so, this has affected the wastegates ability to divert gasses away from the turbine wheel as there maybe less restriction for the gasses to go straight through the turbo and bypass the internal wastegate port.

I will update this in a later post.

Here are some photos of the downpipe. 

Before:

   

After:

   

These configurations package well but I don’t think that I would recommend this layout to folks running a straight 3” downpipe and exhaust.  To make this setup work, I had to open up the internal wastegate port significantly.  You can see this in the photos below:

Before: mild porting of stock internal wastegate port - ran with both downpipe configurations. Worked okay when the gate dumped back into the downpipe. Major fail when vented to atmosphere.

   

After: opened up to 1-3/8” diameter. Preliminary testing indicates this porting fixed my boost control issues 

   

Hopefully someone learns something from my failures.
417 RWHP & 378 lbft
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.
Hey, Anthony ~ I watched your latest vids (good job!) and I have a few questions and observations:

  1. Instead of elongating the trans-mount holes to gain proper bolt alignment, it appears as tho the mounting "tubes" (for lack of better terminology) at the ends of the cross-member have added bushings that could've been swapped from the front position to the rear position......thus moving the entire cross-member forward?

  2. Regarding the shifter "tug" by the leather boot and subsequent "cure" via installation of the Pro 5.0 shift lever........you can position the shift ball/lever even farther forward (possibly mimicking the stock/original position) by simply unbolting and rotating it 180° ~ so the threaded ball-mount stud is offset to the front instead of the rear (compared to the shifter "nub").

  3. As for the clutch pedal's low release position (3/4" off the floor? <eek>) ~ did you ever get that dilemma solved? It seems that you have insufficient clutch-fork travel, compared to pedal travel (OR.....the clutch has a cracked/broken Belleville spring ("diaphragm"). Not an easy fix!  <shrug>
Placerville, California
(former)  '78 2.3T Courier w/blow-thru Autolite 2bbl carb ~ (current)  '87 2.3T Ranger w/PiMP’d EFI
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Ray, you are correct, you can swap out the bushings on the stiffer’s cross member. I tried swapping the positions and could not make it work. If memory serves me correctly, swapping the position of the bushings resulted in the crossmember contacting the back of the transmission casing.

As for the handle(s)… the stock T5 has a large rubber isolator where it bolts to the shifter. This isolator was contacting the stops on the pro5.0 shifter. Did not matter if I flipped it 180 degrees or not. Switching over to the Steeder TriAx created new issues. In the stock orientation it tugged on the boot and was contacting the trim ring on the factory center console. It also leaned way too far back making shifting awkward. I also tried to flip this shifter handle 180 degrees but the location was awkward for gear position 1, 3 and 5. The best compromise was the Stock Pro5.0 handle. I will say that I am still trying to get used to the way the TR3650 with the Pro5.0 shifter, shifts. It is very different than the T5. The 2-3 shift you need to push straight up. The shifter nudges it over for you. I over compensate and hit the gate between 3 and 4 if that makes sense. Also to power shift in upper RPM’s, you need to shift it like you stole it. Pull or push it in gear with force… The T5 is a better shifting transmission in my opinion. Maybe because I am so familiar with it. It’s like second nature. The TR3650 does have better gearing than the V8 T5 that I was using. 1st gear is higher numerical making it easier to get my TC moving and the .82 5th gear is much more useful. I am thinking of swapping out the 4.10’s and go back to my former 3.73’s.

I think that I have the clutch adjusted. Transmission shifts great under moderate power. No issues getting it going. Engagement is nice an smooth. Need to work on shifting in the upper RPM band, ie +6000. As I noted above I think my shifting issues are operator error. Transmission and clutch still only have 250 miles on it. I still have a sluggish shift from 3rd gear to 4th. Feels like it’s shifting through molasses. Hanlon said to give it a little time to break in.

Here is a video with me data logging the a Tial 44mm gate venting to atmosphere. In this arrangement I still was having major boost control issues as RPMs climbed. After “talking” with several folks over at Turboford FB page, it was suggested that I either create more back pressure in the exhaust or port the snot out of the internal wastegate port.

https://youtu.be/_K5v8qpKtnM

In the next video I will demonstrate the effects of porting the internal wastegate port.
417 RWHP & 378 lbft
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If you're happy with everything ~ then........"pay no attention to the man behind the curtain" (Wizard of Oz, ca 1939), Anthony. BUT.......my suggestion for the shifter was to turn the Pro5.0 lever 180° to try and restore the OEM knob location.  <thumbup>
Placerville, California
(former)  '78 2.3T Courier w/blow-thru Autolite 2bbl carb ~ (current)  '87 2.3T Ranger w/PiMP’d EFI
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