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1996 Mustang (SN95) ---> 2.3t swap

Here is a small but detailed update. As stated above, I am attempting to weld up the cracked block. I bought a 2 pound spook of 0.035" 308L welding wire to use in my Lincoln SP-135 Plus welder.

The crack is clearly visible in this pic. At the end of the crack, I drilled a hole.

[Image: 2016-01-21%20--%20Fixing%20Cracked%20Blo...pkxj6j.jpg]

Using a variety of carbide burrs on a right angle air die grinder, I ground out a wide channel. I was pleasantly surprised how easy is was to follow the crack while doing this. It was much more visible than I expected. I used the air die grinder because it is much easier to control than an electric die grinder. You can see that the crack went through a water pump bolt hole on the front of the block.

[Image: 2016-01-21%20--%20Fixing%20Cracked%20Blo...kpx0sd.jpg]

It's my understanding that the thermal expansion/contraction is what makes welding cast iron so difficult. If you throw a big ole' fat weld on there, the region will heat up considerably. The weld region will expand significantly while the rest of the block will remain at ambient temps. Thereby, putting HUGE forces on the block and causing more cracking to occur.

I used a propane torch to preheat the crack region to about 225*F. I chose that temp because I am trying not to damage the head gasket (scientific logic there!).

[Image: 2016-01-21%20--%20Fixing%20Cracked%20Blo...d1s0e2.jpg]

I'd throw a short, 1/2" - 3/4" long weld bead on there and overlap the weld beads to fill the remaining gaps. As soon as I stopped welding, I'd throw the propane torch back on the block. After I was finished welding it all up, I put the propane torch on it and, over the course of 30 minutes, slowly reduced the flame. Then, I threw a welding blanket on it. Again, I'm trying to keep everything at an elevated temperature and let it cool off at a more controlled rate.

[Image: 2016-01-21%20--%20Fixing%20Cracked%20Blo...h6xmt9.jpg]

Here, everything is welded up. I used a air hammer with a blunt tipped tool to lightly tap the weld. Some resources said this helped distress the weld region. That's why the weld looks a little flat on the side of the block. The front of the block was carefully ground down using a grinding wheel before doing to a sanding disc.

[Image: 2016-01-21%20--%20Fixing%20Cracked%20Blo...dyejpe.jpg]

I have added a tab to the motor plate that support the weight of the engine, but haven't taken pictures yet. I also ordered a M8x1.25mm heli-coil kit to put back in that hole. The only purpose of that water pump hole is to seal the block/water up. The new tab will be weight bearing.

I also welded a bung to the motor plate to supply the heater with hot water. This engine was not setup to give the heater hot engine coolant.

Keep your fingers crossed for me!

Have a good day!
Michael
1996 Ford Mustang
2.5t Folvo w/ HE351VE, MS3X, & TKO500

1958 Plymouth Savoy
Flathead 6 and 3-on-the-tree

2018 Audi RS3
2.5t, AWD
11.23 @ 121 mph
Reply

I hope it works for you!
Brian Rasey
88Ranger 2.6 Talldeck
83 Tbird 5.0
16 F150 5.0
Reply

Me too!! :cheers:
Placerville, California
(former)  '78 2.3T Courier w/blow-thru Autolite 2bbl carb ~ (current)  '87 2.3T Ranger w/PiMP’d EFI
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I'm amazed you were able to weld on it without affecting the head/gasket seal. How is the project coming along?
many Fords, just no time...
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The photobucket deal stinks...

Well, a couple years late, I'm finally starting to play again. I dropped off two blocks, the B234F head, crank, and rods/pistons at the machine shop yesterday.

The 'new' block is the one I had machined in the hopes of getting the engine up and running again. That block and the other engine parts just need cleaned up (surface rust on crank, block, and cams) and given a quick lookover.

The 'old' block is the original one that needs some fine tuning on the repair I did. I couldn't get the water pump hole drilled back in the same place and the tap wouldn't thread properly. Since the crack went right through the center of that bolt hole, I'm guessing both of these issues were the result of the hard weld and soft block. Hopefully, that's an easy fix for the machine shop.

ETA to get my blocks back is one month. Not too much I can do until I get my parts back.

I looked over the wiring harness in the car and expected to find significant damage from the field mice since my last shop surrounded by cotton fields. I have high hopes that the harness is intact.

Have a good day!
Michael
1996 Ford Mustang
2.5t Folvo w/ HE351VE, MS3X, & TKO500

1958 Plymouth Savoy
Flathead 6 and 3-on-the-tree

2018 Audi RS3
2.5t, AWD
11.23 @ 121 mph
Reply

Michael, we can fix the links to the pics. Give me a call and we can talk.
(2) 84.5 TurboGT 'verts/84.5 TurboGT hatch/(3) 86 SVOs
86 LX 2.3 (project Ratstang)/04 SVT Focus #1276
77 F-350/40 Ford Sedan/67 Fairlane GT 'vert
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Quote:Originally posted by Michael D.:


.....since my <font color=navy>last shop</font> (was) surrounded by cotton fields.

You don't still have that amazing shop where I ate pizza with you, Paul, Shannon, Mandi and (???) a few years ago, Michael?? :headscratch: <font color=navy>
Placerville, California
(former)  '78 2.3T Courier w/blow-thru Autolite 2bbl carb ~ (current)  '87 2.3T Ranger w/PiMP’d EFI
Reply

Quote:Originally posted by TurboRay:
Quote:Originally posted by Michael D.:


[b] .....since my <font color=navy>last shop</font> (was) surrounded by cotton fields.
You don't still have that amazing shop where I ate pizza with you, Paul, Shannon, Mandi and (???) a few years ago, Michael?? :headscratch: <font color=navy> [/b]
Nope, sadly, that house and shop was sold a couple years ago Sad . All is well in the new shop, though.

Have a good day!
Michael
1996 Ford Mustang
2.5t Folvo w/ HE351VE, MS3X, & TKO500

1958 Plymouth Savoy
Flathead 6 and 3-on-the-tree

2018 Audi RS3
2.5t, AWD
11.23 @ 121 mph
Reply

The engine is back from the machine shop. Over the next two weeks, I hope to have it assembled, back in the car, and cruising around.

To be continued...

Have a good day!
Michael
1996 Ford Mustang
2.5t Folvo w/ HE351VE, MS3X, & TKO500

1958 Plymouth Savoy
Flathead 6 and 3-on-the-tree

2018 Audi RS3
2.5t, AWD
11.23 @ 121 mph
Reply

Was following this on another board as well. If it was easy to do this stuff everyone would do it. Keep at it, the end result is worth it.
Mike
93 Coupe, 2.5L 5spd
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