[Michael D.]

Thanks, NXCoupe. I have gone through some ups and downs with this project.

This weekend was incredibly rare for me. I had an empty house and ignored my entire to-do list. As such, I had the entire weekend in the shop!

I need to seal up the valve cover, install the shifter, add fluids, and start testing the electrical system (mouse damage). High hopes to have this thing fired off very soon!!!

Have a good day!
Michael

[nxcoupe]

You're welcome. Car is sweet and very unique. I took my wife for a spin around the block in my turbo 2.5 fox and made her a believer, lol. I'm working on coil brackets for my factory coil packs, wish I had your fab skills.

[Michael D.]

When I assembled the engine, I used the Volvo head bolts. I shortened them about one inch with a cutoff wheel. I also bought some hardened washers -- which had a larger OD -- to help prevent the aluminum head from deforming. Beyond that, the engine assembly was pretty normal stuff. It's amazing how spread out the little parts get with two shop relocations. I spent more time searching for little doodads than actually assembling the engine.

I was very concerned about the wiring harness in the car. The last shop was in the middle of a wheat field and had LOTS of big mice. After about eight months or so, I finally got a couple shop cats. They did a great job of cleaning house. Now that I've moved back to civilization, my girlfriend adopted them... .

I slowly and methodically worked my way up and down the wiring harness. The engine bay fuse panel was giving some strange continuity readings on four circuits. Three of the circuits were for the 'ignition' and the fourth (straight to ground) was for the headlights. Since this car's wiring harness is so modified, I have no idea what the three ignition circuits are powering. Despite the mice eating all my extension cords and power tool cords, I hadn't actually seen any wiring damage on the car yet. After visually looking everything over very carefully, I connected the battery with a 10 amp fuse. The logic is that the fuse would blow before causing any permanent damage to the car's wiring. From there, I disconnected the MS relay trigger wire and had my daughter turn on/off the battery cutoff while I added one fuse at a time. In the end, all appears well!!!

All that's left before starting it:

-- Add oil the engine
-- Add water to the radiator
-- Drain the fuel cell and add fresh fuel
-- Check fuel system for leaks
-- Prime engine oil
-- Set timing belts
-- Crank away.

The car's tune shouldn't have changed since it last run. With that, my fingers are crossed the car will fire up and run on the current tune.

Wish me luck!
Michael

[TurboRay]

Originally posted by Michael D.:


Wish me luck!

Luck is hereby wished upon you, Michael! :thumbup: <font color=navy>

[nxcoupe]

Good luck!

[Michael D.]

After about five seconds of cranking, the car fired and idled without assistance. The car has a water leak out of the motor plate (a bung I welded in for the heater water supply is leaking) and an oil leak where the oil goes into the cylinder head. I also need to add a ground strap from the engine to the frame.

I let the car run for about five minutes before shutting it down. I did this because I didn't have my laptop and wanted to keep an eye on water temp, etc. I'll fix the couple of things before firing it next and will make sure I have my laptop at the shop.

Overall, I'm pretty happy with it and am excited to get the car back on the road, tuned, and finally see what the Folvo will run at the dragstrip.

Have a good day!
Michael

[TurboRay]

Originally posted by Michael D.:


The car has.....an oil leak where the oil goes into the cylinder head.

(Hopefully) it's just leaking at a hose or tube connection and NOT from between the block and head, right? Is this the same block you had repaired, due to a crack at one of the motor-plate attachment points? Glad you got it running! :thumbup: <font color=navy>

[Paul LeDuc]

Ray, it's most likely the feed line that goes to the Volvo head from the block.
One of the necessary mods to do the Folvo thing...

[Michael D.]

I tried having the original block repaired, but wasn't able to find a machine shop that was comfortable fixing it and I didn't want to spend the time to install a questionable engine. This block is a different block. I still filled it with concrete and am using the same rotating assembly -- new rings and bearings are the only new parts it got.

Paul is correct, the leak is coming from the oil supply line that goes to the cylinder head. It's a bear to get to and I forgot to mess with it before installing the engine. Therefore, I probably didn't get it tight enough with the 2" long wrench I was using...

Have a good day!
Michael

[TurboRay]

Originally posted by Michael D.:


I probably didn't get it tight enough with the 2" long wrench I was using...

Hard to visualize, Michael - but.....perhaps a crows-foot tubing wrench/socket might help?



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