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1996 Mustang (SN95) ---> 2.3t swap
#41

Quote:Originally posted by boogeyman:
the work u do blows my mind i just read the build on the truck and have to say that u are a great builder. i do alot of cages and chassis work but to see someone do it out of a garage is twice as impressive to me. do you fab for a living or just as a side project for yourself ?
Wow, thanks for that compliment Big Grin !

I'm an desk jockey in my day job and have to come home to get my hands dirty Smile . I only work on my own stuff.

Have a good day!
Michael
1996 Ford Mustang
2.5t Folvo w/ HE351VE, MS3X, & TKO500

1958 Plymouth Savoy
Flathead 6 and 3-on-the-tree

2018 Audi RS3
2.5t, AWD
11.23 @ 121 mph
Reply
#42

A small update:

I pulled the engine and am just about finished with the motor plate. The alternator is going on the passenger side above the motor plate because I don't want to redo the wiring for the alternator Wink . Also, this engine sits much lower in the car than the BBF that used to be in it. With that being the case, the alternator hits the steering rack if I mount it below the motor plate. I plan to keep the A/C, but I'm doing a belt tensioner for now. The tensioner is going on the lower driver's side. When I get the A/C installed, I'll remove that tensioner. The A/C will most likely be mounted on the driver's side above the motor plate because of the rack & pinion clearance problems.

http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g69/96...nator1.jpg

http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g69/96...nator4.jpg


Since the motor plate is mounted behind the water pump, the w/p pulley doesn't line up with the crank pulley. I need to space the crank pulley out 0.25" (thickness of the motor plate). A quick look on McMasterCarr.com yielded something that looks like it'll work perfectly! I will put it behind the crank pulley. Even with that 0.25" spacer, I feel the pulley will have plenty of engagement with the key and the bolt will have plenty of threads in the crankshaft.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#30965a113/=7ld1ua
[Image: 3088a587a.gif]

Once I get the spacer and some 0.020" shim stock (shim the tensioner), I'll put the engine back in the car and start wiring it up...

Have a good day!
Michael
1996 Ford Mustang
2.5t Folvo w/ HE351VE, MS3X, & TKO500

1958 Plymouth Savoy
Flathead 6 and 3-on-the-tree

2018 Audi RS3
2.5t, AWD
11.23 @ 121 mph
Reply
#43

More progress:

Crank pulley spacer fits perfectly!!!

http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g69/96...Spacer.jpg

For the alternator mount, I used 3/8" heim joints and 3/4" tubing. I used the lower brace (to the water pump) to help align the alternator with the water pump and prevent the belt tension from tweaking the motor plate.

http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g69/96...Mount2.jpg

http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g69/96...Mount3.jpg

http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g69/96...Mount4.jpg

The top heim joints have a stud on them. That stud isn't long enough to go through the top alternator mount's hole. Therefore, I'm going to drill that hole out, put a thread insert in it, and thread the heim joint's stud into the thread insert.

Have a said that I love McMaster Carr???

Have a good day!
Michael
1996 Ford Mustang
2.5t Folvo w/ HE351VE, MS3X, & TKO500

1958 Plymouth Savoy
Flathead 6 and 3-on-the-tree

2018 Audi RS3
2.5t, AWD
11.23 @ 121 mph
Reply
#44

slowly but surely, this project will be done. keep up the good work.
1962 Falcon
MII Front Suspension, 4-Link Rear, 8.8, 5.0 V8 (Formerly 2.3T )

88 Ranger 2wd RB20DET (Formerly 2.3T, sold)
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#45

Neongreen --> :cheers:

I don't have any pictures with this update, but I have made a little progress.

I drilled the top alternator mounting hole, threaded it, and installed a heavy duty thread insert. Now, the studded heim joint threads into the alternator. I also believe I have the OEM wiring harness finished up now. I removed anything that wasn't necessary. I will need to hook up the respective wires to ground, battery power, and crank/key on power. This will allow me to start the car on the OEM computer. I am always nervous messing with wiring harnesses like this. You never know if it'll work until it's time to crank Smile .

Now that the wiring is done and the accessories are mounted, I need to start on the fuel system. Here is what I ordered:

Part # Item
20 gal Fuel Cell (already installed)
AER-FBM1443 90 DEG ELBOW AN SWIVEL #8
AER-FBM1513 FITTING 8AN-TO-BARB STRAIGHT
AER-FBM2083 BULK HEAD FITTING
SUM-220839 -08 BULKHEAD NUT ALUMINUM
AER-FBM1513 FITTING 8AN-TO-BARB STRAIGHT
AER-FBM1513 FITTING 8AN-TO-BARB STRAIGHT
SUM-220846 8AN TO 3/8 NPT ADAPTER
AEI-12316 JD FILTER IN-LINE
SUM-220648 6AN TO 3/8 NPT ADAPTER
AER-FBM1222 #6 Brass 37. female swivel
AER-FBM1222 #6 Brass 37. female swivel
RUS-670470 10MM x 1.0MM TO -6AN
VPN-GSL392 WALBRO ELECTRIC FUEL PUMP
RUS-670470 10MM x 1.0MM TO -6AN
AER-FBM1222 #6 Brass 37. female swivel
AER-FBM1222 #6 Brass 37. female swivel
SUM-220648 6AN TO 3/8 NPT ADAPTER
ACC-74720 FUEL FILTER
SUM-220648 6AN TO 3/8 NPT ADAPTER
AER-FBM1222 #6 Brass 37. female swivel
AER-FBM1222 #6 Brass 37. female swivel
EAR-592406ERL BULKHEAD NUT -6
AER-FBM2072 BULKHEAD UNION -6 FLARE ENDS
AER-FBM1222 #6 Brass 37. female swivel
AER-FBM1222 #6 Brass 37. female swivel
SUM-2200077 -6-3/8 MALE HARDTUBE FITTING
SUM-2200077 -6-3/8 MALE HARDTUBE FITTING
AER-FBM1222 #6 Brass 37. female swivel
AER-FBM1222 #6 Brass 37. female swivel
RUS-640900 EFI ADAPTER FORD -6AN PRESSURE
Fuel Rail (already installed)
RUS-640870 EFI ADAPTER FORD -6 AN RETURN
AER-FBM1222 #6 Brass 37. female swivel
AER-FBM1222 #6 Brass 37. female swivel
SUM-2200077 -6-3/8 MALE HARDTUBE FITTING
SUM-2200077 -6-3/8 MALE HARDTUBE FITTING
AER-FBM1222 #6 Brass 37. female swivel
AER-FBM1222 #6 Brass 37. female swivel
EAR-983306ERL -6 90 DEG. BULKHEAD FITTING
EAR-592406ERL BULKHEAD NUT -6
AER-FBM1222 #6 Brass 37. female swivel
AER-FBM1232 HOSE BARB 8AN - 6AN


AER-FCV0610 10' #6 AQP SOCKETLESS HOSE
SUM-G2538 ALUM TUBING 3/8" X 25FT
EAR-992908ERL -8 CAP
FRA-481906 TUBE SLEEVE

I hope I ordered everything I'll need. It took quite a while to figure all that out Smile .

So, here is what's left:
-- Install fuel system
-- Clean up wiring harness and engine bay wiring
-- Radiator hoses
-- Change oil
-- ??? I think that's it!!!

Have a good day!
Michael
1996 Ford Mustang
2.5t Folvo w/ HE351VE, MS3X, & TKO500

1958 Plymouth Savoy
Flathead 6 and 3-on-the-tree

2018 Audi RS3
2.5t, AWD
11.23 @ 121 mph
Reply
#46

It's been a little while since any progress was made.

Most of the fuel system is done. I've ordered a few, random fittings to finish it up.

I received the wiring harness for the Megasquirt and, after swapping out the injector connectors, have plugged most things in. I need to figure out how the LM-1 sends signal to the Megasquirt and I need to find the MAP sensor and put it in.

Here are a couple photos of how I expect the turbo to sit. I think everything will fit within the engine bay without having to clearance anything. At most, I'll have to make some room in the strut tower.

I pulled the OEM turbo off the exhaust manifold and crudely placed the HE351VE on one of the studs. It should sit pretty close to the mock-up position. I have ordered the HE351VE flange and will figure out how to connect it to the exhaust manifold. Then, I'll do some grinding on the exhaust manifold to open things up appropriately.

http://s53.photobucket.com/albums/g69/96...ck-Up1.jpg

http://s53.photobucket.com/albums/g69/96...ck-Up2.jpg

http://s53.photobucket.com/albums/g69/96...ck-Up3.jpg

http://s53.photobucket.com/albums/g69/96...ck-Up4.jpg

Also, I've been brainstorming a way to control the turbo. I'm not smart enough with electronics to actually build a circuit board. Here is my current idea:

-- Fab a switch that gets activated by the throttle. I think 70% throttle is about right. Anytime under 70%, the turbo is open (free flowing).

-- When the switch is activated, it will send power to a door popper (or something like that) that closes the turbo (fast spool).

-- Then, as boost is reached, a hobbs switch will deactivate the door popper and open the turbo back up (reduce back pressure).

-- The power will go through the throttle switch to the hobbs switch to the door popper.

-- I'll likely connect the door popper to the turbo through a cable of some type. That way, the door popper isn't exposed to the heat of the turbo. The 'cold' end of the cable will have two mechanical limit switches and a return spring. The limit switches will control how far open and closed the turbo will go.

-- I still need to figure out how to mount a wastegate to the setup. If needed, I'll build/buy a header, but I'd prefer to use the exhaust manifold.

Well, that's it for now. I have the car in the shop and hope to make steady progress on it...again.

Have a good day!
Michael
1996 Ford Mustang
2.5t Folvo w/ HE351VE, MS3X, & TKO500

1958 Plymouth Savoy
Flathead 6 and 3-on-the-tree

2018 Audi RS3
2.5t, AWD
11.23 @ 121 mph
Reply
#47

When you had the BBF in the mustang were you running stock axles? I have a BBF 95 in the works and i have a 33 spline spool, but money is tight so i was thinking of just running the stock axle for now. But i was affraid the torque would break them. Any input from you would be great since you have done it already.
Love the 2,3 in the SN95 and the supercrew project. Great work!!!
stock shortblock, ported head and intake, hy35, ported E6, bo-port 1.5, 72# injectors
332rwhp, 375tq. Best E. T. To date is 7.57 1/8th banging gears
Reply
#48

Quote:Originally posted by cmartin:
When you had the BBF in the mustang were you running stock axles? I have a BBF 95 in the works and i have a 33 spline spool, but money is tight so i was thinking of just running the stock axle for now. But i was affraid the torque would break them. Any input from you would be great since you have done it already.
Love the 2,3 in the SN95 and the supercrew project. Great work!!!
If you are planning on launching hard out of the hole with slicks, you will snap the stock axles. You might get away with a few pass's but I am sure once you pull out an axle you will see the splines starting to twist.
many Fords, just no time...
Reply
#49

Quote:Originally posted by cmartin:
When you had the BBF in the mustang were you running stock axles? I have a BBF 95 in the works and i have a 33 spline spool, but money is tight so i was thinking of just running the stock axle for now. But i was affraid the torque would break them. Any input from you would be great since you have done it already.
Love the 2,3 in the SN95 and the supercrew project. Great work!!!
23Reasons is right. The launch is what breaks stuff. The BBF was running high 11's with that axle before I swapped to an 8.8". But, those 11's only had 2.1 second 60'.

33 spline should be strong enough for most mild/medium BBF builds.

Have a good day!
Michael
1996 Ford Mustang
2.5t Folvo w/ HE351VE, MS3X, & TKO500

1958 Plymouth Savoy
Flathead 6 and 3-on-the-tree

2018 Audi RS3
2.5t, AWD
11.23 @ 121 mph
Reply
#50

Quote:Originally posted by 23reasons:
Quote:Originally posted by cmartin:
[b] When you had the BBF in the mustang were you running stock axles? I have a BBF 95 in the works and i have a 33 spline spool, but money is tight so i was thinking of just running the stock axle for now. But i was affraid the torque would break them. Any input from you would be great since you have done it already.
Love the 2,3 in the SN95 and the supercrew project. Great work!!!
If you are planning on launching hard out of the hole with slicks, you will snap the stock axles. You might get away with a few pass's but I am sure once you pull out an axle you will see the splines starting to twist. [/b]
Pull the stock axles,clean them off and run a
magic marker along a straight edge from the hub
up to the splines.Make a few hits and if it bothers you pull the axle and look at the line you just made.It has been said to replace them after it twists 90 degress but we have gone a little farther before it messed up.

BTW,the SN95 swap is looking good!!
Just damn junk with a blowthru setup.
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