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1996 Mustang (SN95) ---> 2.3t swap

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I've got about a dozen different-size serpentine alternator pulleys, Michael (I always remove the pullies before returning rebuilt-alternator cores, lol). As measured across the front face, they range in diameter from about 2.25-ish to 2.75-ish. Obviously, I don't know what size your pulley is, but - if you'd like to slow your alternator slightly and my large one is bigger than yours - I'd be happy to send it to ya'.  Smile
Placerville, California
(former)  '78 2.3T Courier w/blow-thru Autolite 2bbl carb ~ (current)  '87 2.3T Ranger w/PiMP’d EFI
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I appreciate the offer, Ray, and will let you know if the mount and tensioner remains problematic.

Have a great day!
Michael
1996 Ford Mustang
2.5t Folvo w/ HE351VE, MS3X, & TKO500

1958 Plymouth Savoy
Flathead 6 and 3-on-the-tree

2018 Audi RS3
2.5t, AWD
11.23 @ 121 mph
Reply

This is the completed alternator bracket. Where the two tabs hang down and bolt to the alternator, I clearanced it so the alternator would pivot more.
   

This photo's angle is from the bottom of the engine bay looking up. You can see the bracket mounted to the motor plate at an angle. The heim joint rod that's hanging down was used on the previous alternator mount to tension the belt. It will be reused with this alternator. I had to swap out the heim joints for some high-angle heim and studded joints. 
   

This is a different angle of the same setup. 
   

The alternator mounts well and, while tight, has clearance everywhere it needs it. It has about 1.5" of swing to tighten the belt. 
   

I'll go buy a slightly longer alternator belt and see if the alternator wiring reaches the new hookups on the alternator. If not, I'll need to lengthen the wires a few inches. The power feed wire goes from the alternator to the fuse panel in the engine bay. If that wire needs lengthened, I'll just replace the 24" (or whatever it is) of wire. 

Have a great day!
Michael
1996 Ford Mustang
2.5t Folvo w/ HE351VE, MS3X, & TKO500

1958 Plymouth Savoy
Flathead 6 and 3-on-the-tree

2018 Audi RS3
2.5t, AWD
11.23 @ 121 mph
Reply

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Looks good, Michael. 👍  Soooo........remind me ~ you can't use a "conventional"/Ford low-mount alt brkt because your (solid-mounted) front motor plate is in the way, right?  <shrug>
Placerville, California
(former)  '78 2.3T Courier w/blow-thru Autolite 2bbl carb ~ (current)  '87 2.3T Ranger w/PiMP’d EFI
Reply

(01-10-2021, 08:30 PM)TurboRay Wrote:  .
Looks good, Michael. 👍  Soooo........remind me ~ you can't use a "conventional"/Ford low-mount alt brkt because your (solid-mounted) front motor plate is in the way, right?  <shrug>

it’s been a few years so I could be wrong about some of this, but here are the reasons why I ‘think’ not:

- The motor plate is in the way. 
- The DIY intake manifold is in the way
- I’m unsure if the 2.5 block has provisions for that bracket setup. 

I previously ran a BBF in this car with a motor plate. At that time (2003 or so), I installed a tubular k-member without motor stands. When I went the 2.3 route, instead of swapping out the k-member, I just set the 2.3/2.5 up on a motor plate. In hindsight, I should have swapped out the k-member and ran conventional motor mounts. While I do appreciate having the engine mounted low and back in the engine bay, I’m unsure how much that actually helps me (weight transfer/distribution, etc). 

Have a great day!
Michael
1996 Ford Mustang
2.5t Folvo w/ HE351VE, MS3X, & TKO500

1958 Plymouth Savoy
Flathead 6 and 3-on-the-tree

2018 Audi RS3
2.5t, AWD
11.23 @ 121 mph
Reply

Second Fuel Pump:
In preparation of higher boost, I installed a second external Walbro 255 lph fuel pump. My fuel cell has two 8an outlets. Each fuel pump has its own 8an supply line and prefilter. After the fuel pumps, they "Y" together and go through a single post filter. I was unsure if the return line would handle the increased fuel volume of both pumps. With the car idling and both fuel pumps running, there is no increase in fuel pressure. Within Tuner Studio, I'll set the second fuel pump to come on around 250 kPa or so.

Wastegate:
I previously put the lightest spring in the wastegate. Even with the MBC on the backside of the wastegate valve, I was struggling to slowly turn the boost up any more. This should make it more adjustable.

IAC:
Given that the car is running 2000 cc injectors with no IAC, I am not too bothered by the car's idle. It does require some throttling when its cold and the idle rpm does momentarily dip when the electric fan (Mark VIII) kicks on. On rare occasions, it will die when releasing the throttle from RPM. I just wait to depress the clutch until the RPMs are down around 1,500 rpms. With the goal of getting A/C back on the car, I'd like to go ahead and set the IAC up and reap the benefits of an IAC now. Also, when taking the car in for service (tires & alignment), I hate having others start the car up because it's a little finicky if you're not used to it. I am using a Ford IAC and made a flange to remote mount it. I've "T"ing it into the vacuum block.
   
   

Have a great day!
Michael
1996 Ford Mustang
2.5t Folvo w/ HE351VE, MS3X, & TKO500

1958 Plymouth Savoy
Flathead 6 and 3-on-the-tree

2018 Audi RS3
2.5t, AWD
11.23 @ 121 mph
Reply




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