[markymark]

I'm very new to the 4 cyl scene.
How would you compare the lower end of a 2.3 vs a small block ford.
What kind of RPM can it handle stock?

Thanks

[sctur601]

except for the rods I would say that the 2.3 block and crank are stronger than the 302 especially the later roller blocks. The rods are the weak point and around the 400hp mark they become a liability. The factory pistons (2.3 turbo) are very strong the are comparible to many aftermarket pistons. with a set of crower rods and factory pistons the block should handle as much power as teh head will allow. As for max RPM I have heard people running 7200-7500 rpm on factory stuff. I wouldnt do it because my car is my daily driver + the rev limiter only lets me hit 6250. I think with crower rods and a good ballancing you should be able to rev in the 7000+ range without any problems other than not making much power because of the lack of flow out of the cylinder head.
Hope this helps some.
Shawn

------------------
My vehicle
1983 Turbo Coupe-
13.83 at 103mph!
273rwhp and 342ftlb at 24 psi with a slipping clutch!
And it still feels slow!
FORE SALE $3000obo
need money for school
Thanks
Shawn

Please click the link if you want to sign my aftermarket head list

[a351must2]

If you ever take a look at the 2.3L bottom end, you'll see the advantages...

1) 5 main bearings, but half as many cylinders.
2) 12mm main bolts vs. 7/16 (11mm) main bolts.
3) The rods are basically the same as a 302 rod, with the same size rod bolt, but the bolts are known to be the weak point.
4) The pistons are forged

Stock, they'll never see over 6250 or 6500 due to the rev limiter, and the valvetrain will limit rpm due to valve float before the bottom end breaks.

[markymark]

I read somewhere that the factory pistons are 9:1 until 84, then they go to 8:1.

would it be better to go aftermarket on the pistons to get a little lower comp... for more pressure?

About the heads, is there any extra material to manage an extensive port job?

About the efi... I have an extensive knowledge about the Speed D and Mass systems for EECIV. How is it different for the turbo-4s EECIV?

remember i'm coming from a 5.0 based education here!

Thanks
mark

[vern2.3]

The mini-stock 2.3 runners are comfortable bumping 8000 rpm on stock rods with ARP bolts. Going past that takes some work.

Aftermarket rods and reinforcement straps on the main bearings are advised for really high rpms. Guys with Crower steel rods and strapped mains are turning around 9000rpm.

What the titanium rod guys running mini-mod are going up to seems to be a national secret. But whatever it is, they are really turning them up tight.

But remember, to get past the 6200rpm area lifter float problem, you'll have to rework the head for solid lifters and do lots of flow work to get enough air into the motor to get up into those high rpms.

My current normally aspirated 2.5 combination is built with parts good for 8000, including a big valve head and .608" lift, solid lifter roller cam. As soon as I can afford it, it's getting Crower rods just for a driver comfort factor.

[This message has been edited by vern2.3 (edited 01-25-2002).]

[Jon J]

The oem turbo pistons are 8:1 forged aluminum,this IS what you want for the 2.3 Turbo.There are a few aftermarket pistons avail but keep the c.r @ 8:1.It`s a speed density system of which works very well. There is almost never any reason to monkey around w/the VAM unless the flap door is sticking/not swinging freely.This doesn`t occure very often,but it can happen.There are two sizes of VAMS,you want the larger one.The stock rods are pretty good but if you are going to do a rebuild from scratch,Crower Sportsmans are the way to go.They come already to put in w/no prep needed.

[markymark]

Have you ever heard of one converting it over to a Mass system, for the easy swapout of fuel injectors and better fuel control under pressure??

mark

[Jon J]

Yes,& people who have tried it regret it.We call them"mess air"kits around here.It`s not like doing it to a FI302 which does work well.It can be done but you`ll need something like a stand alone or the EEC-4 Tuner to make it work right. But consider people are cutting 12s-11s-10s on the big VAM speed density system,& there`s not much point to doing it.Check out the FAQ on this website when you can too.

[sctur601]

I wouldnt mess with the "mess air" kits, very few people have gotten them to work well. If you are going all out racing a SDS or some other stand alone fuel managment system would be best for simplicity and total control. If you dont want to do that and want to keep the VAM use a stock computer and an EEC tuner.
By the way what are you building or looking at building. I can tell you these little 4 cylinder engines will surprise you with a little work. I have an 83 heavy butt turbocoupe, 105,000 mile shortblock, with some minor porting, a GN intercooler, stock worn out suspension and on 225-60-16s I ran a 13.83 at 103mph! If this was in a notchback mustang it would probably been close to 4/10s quicker. I still need to stiffen up the car some I figure with 103 mph trap speed I should be able to go low 13s. I still get around 30mpg on the free way and if I drive easy and stay out of boost I can get 25mpg around town, I am ususally on it alot and average 18-20mpg around town.

------------------
My vehicle
1983 Turbo Coupe-
13.83 at 103mph!
273rwhp and 342ftlb at 24 psi with a slipping clutch!
And it still feels slow!
FORE SALE $3000obo
need money for school
Thanks
Shawn

Please click the link if you want to sign my aftermarket head list