[broszzy]

I had the engine running the other day, went to start it again, fuel pump did not come on with key on. found out ignition switch was bad. I had a spare so I changed it, turn key on, fuel pump ran for 1-2 seconds, great. To late at night to run car. 
Next day go to start, key on no fuel pump again, WTF, I checked my eec power relay and the fuel pump relay and they both are good and working fine.

Now my question, pin 22 from computer runs to the ground on the fuel pump relay, with test light on positive side on bat. I have a ground with key on and off, evan with the ignition switch un pluged. Is this right? 

From the test of the fuel pump relay it should only have a ground when the key is in the start position, correct?

[TurboRay]

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As you apparently already know.....pin 22 on the EEC grounds one side of the F/P relay coil to close the contacts and supply power to the f/pump, Pat. I can't tell you offhand which pin on the relay gets that "grounding", but most SPDT automotive relays have similar schematics & numbering, AND they generally have that schematic embossed or printed on the plastic relay dust cover, so it's usually easy to figure out. BUT.......that grounding by the EEC occurs under several different scenarios.

When the key is first turned to the "on" position, EEC pin 22 grounds momentarily, thus energizing the relay coil (whose winding is powered by the ign switch) ~ BUT......only for a second or two to prime the f/rail. That grounding is "timed out" by the EEC, until it "sees" either another off/on cycling of the ignition switch OR a signal from the PIP inside the dist......telling it that the engine is rotating (either from cranking or running). As soon as the engine stops rotating, the PIP signal ceases and the f/pump only "runs on" for a second or two and then stops, regardless of key position.

F/pump "power" obviously passes thru the relay's contacts. AFAIK, that power comes directly from the battery (thru a fusible link) and ~ after passing thru the relay ~ goes to one side of the "inertia switch" (which is in series between the relay and f/pump). It's usually mounted in the trunk near the pump and is designed to open the circuit in the event of a crash/impact (it must be manually reset after being triggered).

BTW, if you wanna check the f/pump circuit, pin 22 is also connected to the "trapezoid-shaped" EEC self-test connector and can be grounded manually. With the key "on" simply ground the correct pin and the pump should run w/o being "timed out". For the location of that pin within the S/T connector, hold it so you're looking into the 4 "wells" on top and the 2 on the bottom. The correct pin is the farthest to the left (on the row of 4). HTH....  <shrug>

[broszzy]

So if I put a test light from bat. pos. to pin 22 the test light should come on with the key for that 1-2 seconds only correct?

[TurboRay]

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Correct ~ BUT......the light will illuminate again whenever the EEC is "notified" by the PIP that the engine is rotating, either from cranking or from running.  <thumbup>

[broszzy]

But mine stays on all the time, key on, off, engine off. I would think with a constant ground from the EEC the fuel pump would run all the time. Not sure where to go here.

[TurboRay]

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The pump won't get powered by the relay - whether the "trigger end" of the relay's coil winding is grounded or NOT - unless the key is on.......since the ign sw powers the opposite end. BUT......that trigger end of the coil winding should only be grounded (by the EEC) under the circumstances I previously mentioned.

Soooo......I suggest working "back" from the relay towards the EEC. Pull the relay from its' socket and look at the schematic printed/embossed on its' cover. I'm holding a generic SPST (4-spade) version in my hand right now and its' coil terminates at spades 85 & 86. Yours may have 5 spades (SPDT), but it wouldn't matter, since the NC contact isn't used. Soooo........if yours is marked similarly, one of the socket connections for those two spades should lead off to EEC pin 22 & the self-test connector, while the other should be powered by the ignition switch.

Probe both socket connectors with your test light and determine which one cycles on & off with the key. The OTHER should connect to pin 22 & the self-test connector. Is it permanently grounded? If so......there's a prob with either the wiring (incl the S/T connector) or the EEC. If that's the case, I suggest disconnecting the 60-pin connector from the EEC and determining if pin 22 on the EEC itself is grounded permanently ~ OR (more likely), the wiring or harness plug is grounded somewhere along its' "long and winding road". Then......proceed accordingly. <shrug>

[broszzy]

Will leaving the ignition in the run position to long with out running burn up my Ignition Control Module (TFI module)?

[TurboRay]

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Soooo......... our intrepid DIYer returns 5 months later with a completely different question/problem? Did you ever solve the LAST one ~ namely, the constant running of the f/pump??  <shrug>

[broszzy]

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Soooo......... our intrepid DIYer returns 5 months later with a completely different question/problem? Did you ever solve the LAST one ~ namely, the constant running of the f/pump??  <shrug>

Ray, I'm very sorry I did not thank you for all your help. I really do appreciate your help with this. Your knowledge with these cars is unbelievable. I'm trying to not be a pain in the ass and figure this on my own as much as possible. I can't believe 5 months have passed already. 

No I never got the fuel pump issue resolved, I got frustrated with it and bypassed pin 22 and grounded it direct to the frame, so it runs with the key on. 
So doing all the wiring of the lights (headlights, tail, turn, running) I've forgot to shut the key off a few extended times and now I have no spark from the coil except with the spout plug removed, and thought maybe the ignition control module got fried.

[TurboRay]

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If you've got spark with the SpOut connector removed, the "ignition control module" (TFI, attached to dist) is okay. Removing the SpOut connector simply takes the EEC (ECM, ECU, computer) out of the "ignition loop", so it no longer advances or retards the ignition timing. IOW, the timing is then locked at the "base" setting. 

Soooo.......it sounds as though you may have an issue either with the EEC itself OR with its' wiring or power supply.......especially since yours doesn't provide the ground signal needed to activate the f/pump relay. Are you saying that you walked away with the key left on, even tho the f/pump was running? 

Shannon (Gustafson, aka "Stinger") and Wes (Kiser) collaborated on the design and sale of the PiMP standalone ECUs, and probably have as much or more knowledge about the EEC management system as just about anyone. Sooooo.....you might try posting on the Stinger forum for help with your EEC probs, if you can't figure 'em out by yourself.

Sorting out EEC &/or its' wiring issues, including power and ground, can be very labor intensive.......especially w/o a "breakout box" which enables one to check each circuit w/o back-probing the 60-pin connector plug. Are you sure that the EEC is powered? In the original applications, there's an EEC relay that supplies power. Did the motor run after you got the f/pump to power on? Are there any codes?  <shrug>

THIS is an index to many helpful circuit diagrams, Ford EVTMs, and articles about Lima-powered cars & trucks, which is thankfully still hosted by Chris Roth, the founder of TurboFord. Hopefully, you can find the circuit diagram for your particular EEC that will help in tracing your electrical gremlins. <shrug>