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71 Opel GT build
#11

LIFE: The odds of you, me or anyone existing with our/your own unique personality is so great that it can't be calculated. I'm sure you've heard the analogy of the "chances" that a monkey would eventually type out all 44 books of the Bible, if set in front of a typewriter for an infinite period of time? It would be a shame to waste/squander it......GOOD LUCK!  <thumbup>
Placerville, California
(former)  '78 2.3T Courier w/blow-thru Autolite 2bbl carb ~ (current)  '87 2.3T Ranger w/PiMP’d EFI
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#12

Been working on fitting the intercooler and piping for that, I also built a (oil catch can) and deleted the PVC valve. I did not like the way the hose can out of the crankcase vent, so I pulled it out and cut the top off and turned it 180 degrees so the hose comes off the back over the oil filter. I found a 3/4' hose with a sharp 90 that goes right to my new catch can.[Image: llSpOCf.jpg][Image: 9PcDobn.jpg][Image: MG9aVFd.jpg][Image: slR0wJs.jpg]

Lets see if I can get these pictures now.
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#13

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It's interesting - at least to me  - how you re-clocked the hose nipple on the vapor canister! Since you had it apart......what's inside? Is it just a labyrinth of baffles, or is there some kinda steel wool in there? Those things are like hen's teeth = virtually impossible to find!  <shrug>
Placerville, California
(former)  '78 2.3T Courier w/blow-thru Autolite 2bbl carb ~ (current)  '87 2.3T Ranger w/PiMP’d EFI
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#14

Yes, it is just a baffel, no steel wool. I thought I could just turn it but it hit the hump above the oil filter. Now I can get at the distributor lock nut also.
I also bought a Stinger by pass valve. from what I've read I need to plumb this in as close to the throdle body as I can, then between the Vam meter and the turbo intake. Does that soud correct?
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#15

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Opinions are like a$$holes, Pat.....everybody has one, lol. If it is indeed a "by-pass" valve - as opposed to a "blow-off" valve (meaning that the discharged air back will be plumbed back into the inlet of the turbo, so it doesn't adversely-effect the VAM's measurement of the ingested air).....I would probably mount it close to the turbo outlet, in order to shorten the return plumbing.

OTOH, if I were to ditch the (OEM) VAM in favor of a MAP sensor (as used by a speed density system like a "PiMP").....I would use a BOV that exhausts to open air and mount it close to the TB, as you mentioned. IMO, the reason for mounting a BOV close to the TB serves not only to exhaust excess charge air, but also to help in alleviating the momentum that a "longer column" of air might have gained after passing thru all the piping and the IC. 

Talkin' outta my ass here, BUT........I think that in the whole scheme of things, mounting the blow-off valve nearer to the TB has some merit, altho possibly  not a whole lot. DUNNO!  <shrug>

BTW ~ I see that you're still alive after apparently getting your GT off the 6ft(?) jack stands and back on the ground, lol.  <stickpoke>
Placerville, California
(former)  '78 2.3T Courier w/blow-thru Autolite 2bbl carb ~ (current)  '87 2.3T Ranger w/PiMP’d EFI
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#16

(10-14-2021, 01:03 AM)TurboRay Wrote:  .
Opinions are like a$$holes, Pat.....everybody has one, lol. If it is indeed a "by-pass" valve - as opposed to a "blow-off" valve (meaning that the discharged air back will be plumbed back into the inlet of the turbo, so it doesn't adversely-effect the VAM's measurement of the ingested air).....I would probably mount it close to the turbo outlet, in order to shorten the return plumbing.

OTOH, if I were to ditch the (OEM) VAM in favor of a MAP sensor (as used by a speed density system like a "PiMP").....I would use a BOV that exhausts to open air and mount it close to the TB, as you mentioned. IMO, the reason for mounting a BOV close to the TB serves not only to exhaust excess charge air, but also to help in alleviating the momentum that a "longer column" of air might have gained after passing thru all the piping and the IC. 

Talkin' outta my ass here, BUT........I think that in the whole scheme of things, mounting the blow-off valve nearer to the TB has some merit, altho possibly  not a whole lot. DUNNO!  <shrug>

BTW ~ I see that you're still alive after apparently getting your GT off the 6ft(?) jack stands and back on the ground, lol.  <stickpoke>


I is a "by pass valve" I'm keeping the VAM for now anyways as I will run the stock computer too. I don't want to change to much as this is my first turbo car. I do have a bigger turbo and a adjustable wastegate actuator.

Not sure if I will need a boost controller. If I can adjust the actuator with different springs do you think I will still need a controller?

Sorry to disapoint you Ray but the car is still off the ground. I want to finish as much as I can under the car before it will sit an the ground again.
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#17

(10-13-2021, 09:38 PM)broszzy Wrote:  (1) Not sure if I will need a boost controller. If I can adjust the actuator with different springs do you think I will still need a controller?

(2) Sorry to disapoint you Ray but the car is still off the ground. I want to finish as much as I can under the car before it will sit an the ground again.
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(1) [Manual] boost controllers are relatively cheap, Pat, and they do more than just regulate/limit boost. They also prevent ANY boost pressure from reaching the WGA which might otherwise "partially" open the flapper valve before the desired boost level is achieved......thus slowing how quickly the turbo spools. I suggest THIS one, made/sold by Ric Gillis......arguably one of the first to offer it to the TurboFord community over 20 years ago.

(2) I'm not exactly disappointed that you still have yer car precariously perched 6 feet(?) above the ground on tall jack stands, Pat. It's just that it invokes visions of unintentional human sacrifice to the "gravity gods"! <rolleyes> All joking aside, I AM concerned about your safety. Hopefully, you won't forget the circumstances "under" which you're working and apply excessive torque or leverage to some component thus causing an "OOPSY" event &/or there won't be any nearby earthquakes!  <EEK>
Placerville, California
(former)  '78 2.3T Courier w/blow-thru Autolite 2bbl carb ~ (current)  '87 2.3T Ranger w/PiMP’d EFI
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#18

Thank you for your concern, I appreciate it.

As far as the by pass valve goes, I will put a 1" nipple between the VAM and the turbo inlet and one as close to the throttle body as I can. Then it should not make any differance witch side the valve itself is mounted, should it? I have alot more room by the turbo inlet and it will fit nice there.
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#19

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That should work fine, Pat!  <thumbup>
Placerville, California
(former)  '78 2.3T Courier w/blow-thru Autolite 2bbl carb ~ (current)  '87 2.3T Ranger w/PiMP’d EFI
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