[broszzy]

.
The oil pressure at idle seems a little high, Pat ~ but it won't hurt anything......the upper RPM pressure is correct. Are those pressure readings being measured when warmed up?  <shrug>

Yes, that is warmed up. I will drive it easy till the oil is flowing nice. Will also pull the disy and check the drive gear as well. Thanks Ray.

[TurboRay]

.
It also wouldn't HURT .to snap a couple of strong magnets on the bottom of yer oil pan &/or filter to try and trap the ferrous-metal "dust", flakes, and chips that came from your previously-damaged gear(s).  <shrug>

[broszzy]

.
It also wouldn't HURT .to snap a couple of strong magnets on the bottom of yer oil pan &/or filter to try and trap the ferrous-metal "dust", flakes, and chips that came from your previously-damaged gear(s).  <shrug>

So I'm on my second engine since the first one wore down the distributor gear till it failed on me. I was running QS full synthetic 10W-30 oil, I'm not sure if that gear had wear on it before I ran it or not. I did a engine swap with another engine, the aux shaft gear looked good, no sign of wear, I had a used dis. gear with no sign of wear I put in and run it for about 100 miles with QS full synthetic 5W-20 (thinking thinner oil, less pressure on the gear, hopefully less wear) I just pulled the distributor and you can clearly see wear that was not there when I installed it. I took a video you can see.

Any ideals on what could be going wrong for me? 

https://i.imgur.com/Q9IrC9j.mp4

[TurboRay]

.
Hmmm.........you've got me worried now, Patrick!  I've been recommending and using oils found in the top ten of that oil-comparo chart for years, based on the superior wear characteristics that its' publisher found thru testing. I certainly hope I haven't misled anyone!!!  <eek>

I'm still convinced that the excessive wear on those gears is a lubrication issue, since it NEVER occurred during the "early" (first 20-ish) years of Lima production when I was still working as a Ford stealership "heavy line" (engine, diff & manual trans) mechanic.  <shrug>  I don't happen to think the prob is an "oil-supply" issue, altho Esslinger/Race Engineering DOES sell special grooved aux-shaft bearings that provide a stream of oil directed at those gears.

[broszzy]

How doses this gear get oil with stock bearings? Is it just slashed from oil pan? I did modify my dip stick, I hope it is full enough. I put in 6.5 quarts and it has the large filter.

[TurboRay]

.
AFAIK, "splash" is the only factory method of gear lubrication ~ BUT, as I said previously, it was sufficient back in "the day" to prevent gear & follower damage with the old-school oil-additive packages. ALSO, I'm relatively certain that 5qts is the factory oil capacity with the shorter "FL300(?)" filter and stock "sandwich" cooler. I doubt that any more than 5-1/4 qts total with the larger FL1(A?) filter would be req'd to bring the level up to the "full" mark. 

Larger/deeper oil pans & pickups are generally used to lower the oil level farther from the rotating assembly (requiring a relocated "full" mark on the dipstick, OR a shorter dipstick TUBE), to reduce/eliminate the potential for aerated/foamy oil. I wuz wrong once B4, BUT.........I don't THINK that most deeper/custom pans are intended to hold MORE oil, even tho their mfrs often list 'em with a greater-than-stock "capacity" for reference.  <shrug>

[dan_xr4]

How doses this gear get oil with stock bearings? Is it just slashed from oil pan? I did modify my dip stick, I hope it is full enough. I put in 6.5 quarts and it has the large filter.

I would think that even the stock auxiliary shaft bearings should provide some oil for lubrication of the distributor gears.

[TurboRay]

I would think that even the stock auxiliary shaft bearings should provide some oil for lubrication of the distributor gears.

.
You're probably right, Dan.....I'm sure that was an adequate method of gear lubrication. IMO, the "custom" Essy/Race Engr aux-shaft brgs that provide an aimed stream of oil pointed directly at the gears were only made as a perceived "fix" for curing what I'M fairly certain is a lube-additive problem (lack thereof). As I've said many times, "we" (I'm a former stealership "heavy-line tech") NEVER had any gear failures during the first 15-20 years after the Lima engine was first introduced in '74 (I began working for Ford in 1975 after my conscripted service in the US Army during the Vietnam "conflict" <rolleyes>).

"We" didn't see the prolific gear and slider failures until after the petroleum companies were coerced by the OEM's into removing all the additives that were causing premature failure of the catalytic converters (which had to be warranted for 50K in California ~ later in ALL states........now 70K). As a preventative measure and after seeing the "writing on the wall"........Ford deleted the gear-driven pumps from the Lima engines in 1995, by putting 'em in the block and driving 'em directly by the t/belt.  <shrug>

[broszzy]

https://www.enginelabs.com/news/tips-for...d-engines/

I found this article that talks about drilling a .030 hole in the lifter/oil galley plug behind the distributor, this plug must be inside the block?
I also read about running a line from the turbo oil supply to the fuel pump block off plate to spray directly on the gear. 

When I clean out my other engine I will look at these options and the modified aux shaft bearing as well. For now I'm going to change to Rotella oil and watch for more wear as I work out other bugs in this build.

The car has air ride on it and I had to make new front control arm spring perches to lower the air pressure and raise the ride height for a smoother ride, now I have to do the same in the rear, plus insulate and carpet the floor and tunnel, it gets very warm in there now. I'm also working on my remote TFI now that the distributor is out.

[dan_xr4]

I have put grease on the distributor gears and I think it helps. Greasing the gears was even mentioned in a Ford Service manual I had and in the link below.

https://www.cardone.com/content/Products/PT30-0004.pdf