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84 SVO Wiring
#1

I bought an 84 SVO this week and it has wiring issues.  Many of the wires under the hood have the insulation cracked or falling off.  I've heard about the 84 specifically having wiring problems so I'm curious if it is just under the hood from the extra heat or if I probably need to replace the entire wiring harness in the car.

I have a lot of spare parts from 87/8 TC so I'm hoping to be able to use that wiring harness for repairs.  I figure while I'm at it I might as well upgrade the ECU to the L series and the bigger injectors.

steve
83 & 84 GT turbo, 84, 85.5 & 86 SVOs
87 & 88 TurboCoupe
93 5.0 notch, 95 GT coupe & vert, 96 GT vert  (Yes, I have a probem, garage's too small!)
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#2

(07-03-2020, 11:41 PM)teal95 Wrote:  I bought an 84 SVO this week and it has wiring issues.  Many of the wires under the hood have the insulation cracked or falling off.  I've heard about the 84 specifically having wiring problems so I'm curious if it is just under the hood from the extra heat or if I probably need to replace the entire wiring harness in the car.

I have a lot of spare parts from 87/8 TC so I'm hoping to be able to use that wiring harness for repairs.  I figure while I'm at it I might as well upgrade the ECU to the L series and the bigger injectors.

steve

Are you doing a restoration or just want a running car? Reason I ask it is might be cheaper (and protects your sanity) to look at the harnesses Stinger sells. You're right the 84 wires seemed to fall apart more often than the later years. Trying to find good pig tails, then good wires in the original harness etc. drove me crazy. In hindsight should have just bought the replacement (but not factory correct) harness.
84 Capri RS Turbo - total rebuild. Running, 7 years later.
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#3

I pulled the steering column covers because I figured that would quickly give me a lot of wires to look at to see if it was all of the wiring or just the excessive heat under the hood.  From what I could see all the wires in the column area are good so it appears the problem is mostly due to the heat under the hood. 

Of course as soon as I started touching the wires the ignition switch fell apart.  But, while I have 3 spares on the shelf, I just put the 2 pieces back together and bent the tabs down a lot tighter.

This also leads me to believe that I need to inspect the wiring in my 84 GT turbo.

steve
83 & 84 GT turbo, 84, 85.5 & 86 SVOs
87 & 88 TurboCoupe
93 5.0 notch, 95 GT coupe & vert, 96 GT vert  (Yes, I have a probem, garage's too small!)
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#4

Almost a year later back at it.  I've decided to pull the engine to get at the wiring harness a lot easier.  When I went to disconnect the shifter I found it's got a lot better sealing than I remember in my other foxes, so I have to pull the console to get at all the bolts.  I did replace the clutch in my 85.5 but that was ~30 years ago. 

Of course this will snowball, I might as well replace the exhaust and clutch while I've got it out (Stinger here I come).  I'm still thinking about setting things up to run E85, but I'll probably end up doing that.  I found a document on upgrading from a P to an L series ECU so that should cover most of what I'm doing.  The biggest pain will probably be adding all the extra inputs that the L series requires (brakes, speedo...)

steve
83 & 84 GT turbo, 84, 85.5 & 86 SVOs
87 & 88 TurboCoupe
93 5.0 notch, 95 GT coupe & vert, 96 GT vert  (Yes, I have a probem, garage's too small!)
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#5

(04-06-2021, 01:31 PM)teal95 Wrote:  When I went to disconnect the shifter, I found......I have to pull the console to get at all the bolts. 
.
It's been a while, BUT.....aren't there two bolts holding the upper/longer shift lever to the short/stubby one that comes outta the tail housing? If so, you should be able to simply remove the upper lever, and the stub lever will clear the boot & tunnel hole when lowering the rear of the trans for removal. BTW, it's nice to have an old slip yoke or a "trans plug" to prevent oil from exiting the rear onto you or the garage floor.  Smile
Placerville, California
(former)  '78 2.3T Courier w/blow-thru Autolite 2bbl carb ~ (current)  '87 2.3T Ranger w/PiMP’d EFI
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#6

(04-06-2021, 01:31 PM)teal95 Wrote:   The biggest pain will probably be adding all the extra inputs that the L series requires (brakes, speedo...)

The L series doesn't require any of that to run the engine. You just move a few pins and you can (but don't have to) add the ACT sensor and wires.
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