[frankenstang91]

On a spirited drive to work this morning I have joined the crowd of guys who have experience the dreaded(drum roll please.) :madbig: Exploding distributor/DIS gear of death! :madbig: So that being said looks like I'm in the market for a matched set(DIS swap here) and going to run the additive to my regular oil changes. Any other precautions I should take outside of pulling the motor or is that greatly suggested? I rebuilt the engine less than 9k miles ago replaced the oil pump(stock spec) and shaft then. When I did the DIS swap (less than 3k mi. ago) I used matching parts from a running engine from a previous car I owned. I figured I could flush and drop the pan, install a new pump :dunno: , then swap another matched DIS drive/Aux shaft.

[RX7 Turbo II.3]

i would pull the motor, drop the pan and look through it very carefully. there will be fragments in there that you will probably never get out, and you wanna get all the silver flaked oil out that you can. i've heard of guys flushing the motor out with diesel while still in the car, but i personally would go through it good and get all the crap out,

[TurboRay]

Originally posted by frankenstang91:


I figured I could flush and drop the pan, install a new pump....

Do as you wish, but it's very difficult to remove all traces of metallic particles from an engine. They end up in the weirdest places, like on the horizontal ledges of ribbed main webs and in concave recesses on top of the head inside the v/cov area. :dunno:

More importantly, they tend to embed into the soft aluminum skirts of pistons, since they only receive splash lube. On the initial start of the BBC engine in my S/Gas Vega, I didn't have sufficient pump-drive engagement. After fixing it, I wound up spinning a rod bearing on my first outing with the car.....apparently due to bearing damage during the initial "dry" startup.

Long story short, in addition to welding/regrinding the crank, replacing the rod and overall cleaning - I had to hand pick all the ferrous metal particles from my piston skirts. This was aided by soaking 'em in water over night in salty water, to help 'em rust and become more visible with a magnifying glass.

C'ya - RAY

[Apocolipse]

What kind of oil were you running?
Oil temps?
Oil cooler?
Oil pressure?

Thank you! If you can't answer them all, answer what you can.

[TurboRay]

OOPS.........double :o

C'ya - RAY

[TurboRay]

He apparently wasn't using any zinc/phosphorous additive (ZDDP, or equivalent), <font color=navy>Chris</font> - which was probably the main contributor to the failure, IMHO. :dunno:

C'ya - RAY

[Apocolipse]

Yup, I do not believe that its the pressures associated with our engines that is ruining these gears. They are a direct contact gear drive, similar to how a flat tappet cam operates. The same reason those cams get wipped is the same reason these gears get thin and break.

[frankenstang91]

I was running mobile 10w30 (I was gonna change the oil this weekend I usually do sub 3k oil changes since the build and purolator or ac delco filter), no clue on oil temp the car was running at 178 degrees according to my log. I also run the stock oil cooler. Pressure was around 50 :dunno: when SHTF it's so fast I really can't be sure. I did immediately shut the car down when I saw the no oil pressure on the guage. DIS does have that down side of leaving the car running during said event. Never experiencing this failure I really wasn't aware of consequences and repercussions. From the sounds of it and searching this is a "big stick in the eye" I was kinda reading into it as a oh s**t I broke dizzy gear better get a new one flush it and run an additive. I financially (getting married in November and fronting the bill all myself I'm not a a silver spoon kid) can not afford another rebuild. Sounds like I have some soul searching to do :bawl:

[turboplz]

Let me know if you need any help. If I can get some free time I wouldn't mind at all.

[Apocolipse]

Switch to the m127 pump. I have all the blocks (turbo, non turbo, and a newer dis block). I have compared the area where the shaft sits, how it gets oiled, etc and I can see 0 difference between them.

The only difference is that one uses a m86 pump and the newer engine uses m127. Also which mobil were you running? The regular synthetic they have? Look up the one you have and see what ratings its approved for. If you want mobil 1 still, run their turbo diesel formula. Best stuff they make.