Just saw this, although the reply is a little late maybe this will help someone else too.
I believe Scott's adapter PCBs were sold through DIY autotune from what he said here.
That said...I did make quite a few EEC-IV boards for sale off my original, now defunct MegaEFI.com web site, which BTW, that old board is still sold by DIYAutotune.com, though now foreshadowed by an "PNP" kit which they have developed in house.
https://www.msextra.com/forums/viewtopic...66#p279566
So these links should be correct for the documentation.
Settings
https://www.diyautotune.com/support/tech...rd-eec-iv/
BOM and assembly
https://www.diyautotune.com/support/tech...ter-board/
Schematic
https://www.diyautotune.com/wp-content/u...V20sch.pdf
Having bought the EEC-IV adapter board through DIY and used it for many years with MS1,2, and 3 it does work but also has one main defect in my opinion.
There is no main power protection on the the adapter PCB.
Inside the megasquirt at least the V2.2 and V3.0 PCB there is also no main power protection, they intend it to be in the vehicle harness and recommend a 3A fuse for the MS box alone. There is a polyfuse on the MS PCB but this is after the main voltage regulator and only protects the 5V bus.
In the xr4ti and likely the other TF's there is a fusible link for the ECU main power and not a fuse.
All the other injector power, sensors, Idle Valve, etc are fed from the EEC relay after the fusible link.
This means that with the MS and EECIV adapter pcb in its stock form there is no power protection other than the fusible link, not good!
12V power is sent from pins 37 and 57 on the eec-IV connector directly to the MS DB37 pin 28, 12V input.
If anything goes wrong inside the MS or adapter board you will have a smoke show.
This could also be the case for some of the later DIY EEC-IV breakout boxes since the PCB shows no fusing provisions but I cannot comment directly on those.
Mine shorted some tantalum caps, which is a known issue, in the MS2 and in turn cooked the MS2 PCB beyond repair.
Just go over to MSextra forums and search C14 and read through the many sad stories.
Mine was just a normal startup, no charger connected or anything just turned the key and poof.
When that happened I started digging into the wiring/schematics and thats when I found this little nugget. Recommended fusing is also not mentioned at all in the DIY articles linked above.
So if anyone uses one of these or has it in their vehicle now I highly recommend adding a fuse for the megasquirt, somewhere....
After the magic smoke escaped from my MS2 I modified my setup internal to the EEC-IV adapter case so that is has that fused protection before it hits any of the MS adapter circuits or the MS ecu itself.
On my next megasquirt I also opted not to use those tantalum capacitors in the main PCB build.
If you don't want to modify the adapter board you should cut the factory wires after the eec relay and add a fuse into the car harness.