[greg bar]

Engine wont start.   Last time ran was 2015.  Took car off the road did track mods: cage, maximum Motorsports suyspension   moved battery and all feeds.  Data logged during no start and start.  BAP sensor starts at 29.25 then goes up 32 numbers every 3 samples.  Untill I try to start car then drops back to 29.25.   when I stop starting numbers start going up same rate.   BAP is original in 1990 mustang  E7EF-9F479-A2A.   Other issues going on also but trying to eliminate one at a time.   5.1 volts at BAP orange/ white wire.   Does this every time I datalog

[TurboRay]

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What car/engine is this? RU you inquiring about what I've always called the "BPS" (barometric pressure sensor, identical to the MAP used on N/A Limas, BUT..... w/o a hose attached)? If so, I doubt that anything related to it would cause a no-start. It COULD be a cause for improper driveability ~ but is unlikely to prevent startup.

If you've got compression, (properly-timed) spark, and fuel....... the engine should start (or, at least TRY to start). RU sure all those things are present? Check for spark AT THE PLUG (not just at the coil tower or coil wire). Check fuel-rail pressure (39-ish PSI ~ w/key on, engine off). Check for injector pulse when cranking with switch/key. Gas still good after nearly 10 years?  <shrug>

[greg bar]

1990 Mustang. Re-pinned the factory 4cly harness. running a LA3. Put Noid light on cyl #3 injector had flickering. Put Spark tester at end of plug wire had spark. fuel pressure gauge taken directly off fuel log at 39 40 psig. New gas I installed a fail safe fuel cell. Inj PW varies during starting from 3MS to12ms. Looks like around 5ms ave. I have datalogs. Yes BAP MAP same thing no hose attached. This motor did run after the conversion in 2006. In 2010 installed Quarter Horse and started to tune it better. Ran alot better. never finished tuning

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Its a fuel safe cell not fail safe cell   my bad! New plugs gapped at 0.029 also New coil. wires are good Magna Core

[dan_xr4]

I am not sure why your cranking fuel pulsewidth is only 12 msec. I think your cranking fuel pulsewidth should be over 20 msec.

I agree with TurboRay, I don't think that the Barometric Absolute Pressure is causing your starting problem.

Crank fuel is basically a function of Engine Coolant Temperature. FN4FC (24FC hex). At ECT = 68 degrees the fuel pulsewidth should be 20 msec.

That fuel pulsewidth is modified by BAP. The crank fuel pulsewidth is multiplied by (BAP in Hg) / (29.92 in Hg). The maximum BAP is limited to 30.98 in Hg. At a BAP of (30.98 in Hg) the crank fuel pulsewidth is increased 3.5% which at 20 msec is less than a 1 msec increase.

The minimum BAP is 15.08 in Hg. If your BAP goes down to 15.08 in Hg then your crank fuel pulsewidth would be reduced by 50%. Based on your dataloging, I don't think your BAP is going down to 15.08 in Hg.

After 10 seconds of cranking the cranking fuel pulsewidth will start to decrease based on function FN4F0 (24F0 hex)

You can send me your datalogs. I hope I can read them.

[greg bar]

One thing I havent done yet was check cam timing.   i checked ignition timing twice.  I have two data logs from 2/14 and 2/16.   the data is not the same for example the BAP as I stated above does do the same.  however the IAC and spark does not.  The data looks very questionable.   Ill take another data log later today and get back with you.  The ECT is correct and the same on both data logs.   i need to compare both and identify the differences.
I removed alot of wiring and modules. Im hoping that I havent messed up the EEC. I do have a LB3 as a spare.

[TurboRay]

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I think it's highly unlikely that the cam timing has changed from just "sitting".... even tho it's been 10-ish years. Soooo....... you have 40-ish psi rail pressure, (ASSumed) proper cam & spark timing, AND - you said, "Put Noid light on cyl #3 injector had flickering". 

BUT...... a flickering noid light doesn't mean the injectors are injecting fuel ~ just that they are getting a trigger signal. I suggest putting a long screwdriver between one or more injectors to see if they're actually "ticking" ~ which, BTW, still doesn't mean they're injecting fuel after potentially "gumming up" for a decade. 

If they ARE ticking, the next thing I would try - just for shíts and giggles - is to take the hose off the TB and spray some starting fluid (ether) therein while cranking. If you've got spark (as you say) the engine should react with brief running/knocking or at least "popping". If it DOES, I would guess that the gas in your fuel rail is (still) stale ~ in spite of adding fresh fuel to the tank, OR that yer (ticking) injectors aren't injecting any fuel.  My 2¢........ 

You can check for injector function/spraying by pulling the rail with the injectors still attached (they usually stay in the rail) and cranking the engine. Obviously, you should see fuel squirting out of each! Before doing this, however..... pull the 2-wire primary plug from the coil to prevent any sparks.  <shrug>  

[greg bar]

Im doing you guys a disservice by not telling you ALL the mods that have been done.   probably should have listed all mods and titled this as no start.  The fuel system is all new.  Stinger fuel rail, SS braided hoses dash -6, AN fittings, new; tank pickup, external pump, prefilter, main filter and external pressure regulator.  I had a leaking exhaust valve on cylinder #4.  So I redid one of my extra heads.   I installed bo-port valves did some bowl work and reshaped the chambers to more like heart shape.  this is why I mentioned the cam timing.   I did spray some either in the TB at one point but not recently.

[greg bar]

Sent you the data log on PM.   Let me know that you received it.  i was having power issues around that same time.

[dan_xr4]

I recieved your datalog. I will check it out.