[StrangerTurboRanger]

What should the initial timing be for TFI, jumper out?
   Fairly certain this is a Stinger plug and play. I was not the original builder on this thing and still trying to figure out what I have. All I know is I did an ignition tune up, and timing belt. I got the accy pulley off a notch which was no big deal. Verified crank and cam were correct.  The notch off on the accy. pulley allowed me "correct" the angle of the distributor in order to get the TFI module to lay more longitudinally with the engine Instead of pointing out towards the strut tower ( OCD about dumb stuff like that). Set base timing to 10 degrees BTDC with jumper pill out, now the thing feels flat on power above 3000 RPM.

   Tried a couple different searches and came up empty on rule of thumb initial timing when using TFI ignition. I also have yet to tap into the standalone to see where things are with it, out of fear of messing up the tune since I am completely ignorant when it comes to messing with parameters. All I do know is that the tune was fine before I physically changed the distributor angle. Normally I would just clock the distributor by ear then use a timing light to verify It was not over advancing on the EEC IV.

[Racingjake]

Finial timing will be fixed at 20 degrees with spout in for the Pimp ECU. You also need the setup pages and Tunerstudio to get it really dialed in.

[StrangerTurboRanger]

Finial timing will be fixed at 20 degrees with spout in for the Pimp ECU. You also need the setup pages and Tunerstudio to get it really dialed in.

 Thank you. That would explain it. I just went for conservative initial timing spout out like the EEC IV. Sounds like I may have over advanced things.
 Luckily I did not drive it much. Did not hear any detonation, But the open dump on the external WG does howl like a banshee. Water temp seemed to run hotter than usual after a pretty hard but short pull. I credited that to the warmer day.

[Chuck W]

Yeah, I just had to reset base timing on my TBird with the old MS1 w/Extra set-up.

Set to "Fixed Timing" in TS, by however means needed in the settings. 20* was recommended. Keep the SPOUT in and set the timing on the crank to 20* at idle.

After locking the dist down, change to setting in TS to use your spark map.

I dumbed it and set it incorrectly the other day (Forgot to set it to "Fixed Timing"). Ran like poo.

[Stinger]

If you're not connecting the ECU to a laptop because you're scared of messing things up then the last thing you should try to do is change timing as that process involves a laptop. It's too late for that now though since you already changed it and likely don't know where it was before so you can't just turn it back to where it was.

DO NOT just set it to 20 degrees at idle if you're not connected to a laptop as you need a laptop to change it to "fixed timing" so you can set timing. Doing what the guys above said (without a laptop) will only get it in the ballpark but because of idle advance, timing table values, etc., it could be up to 5 degrees retarded or advanced from "right" and that's plenty to blow up the engine.

If you want to enjoy the benefits of a standalone ECU, get an accessory pack for it (if you didn't get the USB drive that it came with from the previous owner) so you have the instructions, software, license, etc. and then you can use it.