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Best Bearings For our engines
#1

My car has the current stock bottom end. I am down to choice of bearings.

I have a .30 over 2.3 with Crower rods, Carillo pistons, Bo stage 3 head, bo 1.8 cam, Front mount innercooler, shloades gutted and ported, Bob's log, 88 lbd injectors, Snow's Meth injector, 53/55 precision ball bearing turbo, 3" inch turbo elbow, fmic, pimp, 3, tial wastegate.

It hat put 359/402 (it blew the waste gate gasket and it made t these numbers @ 32 lbs as it did it on the dyno and I sent it anyway) to the ground before the 3 inch elbow and tial 38 which made a huge difference. Those number were made on a non roller dyno but the kind that they bold to the wheels. I am told these read low?

The questions are is that I have Carrillo rings that cam with the pistons. Are these good or go to a different file fit? What are the best rod bearings for our cars knowing my combo will make north of 400/500 ish to the wheels. Yes the car is already arp head studs and I have ARP rod and main bearing to install on the rebuild. 

Any help would be sincerely appreciated.
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#2

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Naming the "best" engine bearings can be very subjective (opinionated). I suggest using the ones recommended by your engine builder,  machinist, OR (gasp)...... the phone techie at the bearing company you choose. For a performance high-power engine with a lot of power density, like yours (500hp from 140cid = 3.5hp/cid)...... I would probably choose a "hard" bearing like TRW's "Clevite 77". 

BUT....... for a moderate-power daily driver, one might be better off with an OEM-style "soft" bearing. They're better at "embedding" the inevitable metal, carbon, and bearing particles (debris) that accumulate in an engine over time, due to normal wear...... thus reducing the chances of scoring the crank journal(s).

As for brand, I suggest staying with one of the reputable companies like King, TRW (Sealed Power, Speed Pro, Federal-Mogul), Delco-Moraine, ACL, etc.). Regarding ring choice ~ it/they need to be "turbo-friendly", with the top 2 rings gapped around .0055 to .0065 per inch of bore..... which means hand-fitted (filed or ground). The 2nd ring should be gapped slightly wider than the top, to prevent pressure buildup between the two...... thus reducing the potential for ring "flutter". My 2¢......  <shrug>
Placerville, California
(former)  '78 2.3T Courier w/blow-thru Autolite 2bbl carb ~ (current)  '87 2.3T Ranger w/PiMP’d EFI
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