I have a 1987 Thunderbird turbo coupe. Love the car, now I want to make it faster.
I'm starting to put together a hardware list for upgrades to my 2.3L . Down the road, I'd like to shoot for 350 to 400 hp . I know I'll need a new turbo, looking at a t3/t4 or a straight up t3, and I'll need to make some intake and probably some heads mods (bigger valves), etc, to take full advantage of the header.
With regard to exhaust systems, what do you think is the better exhaust - a latest generation "Bobs log", or Stinger header? (actually, does anyone else make a "header" for the 2.3L?). Bobs log and stinger are the only 2 I know of .
Pros/cons of each?
BTW, I currentlly have a 3" turbo on back stainless steel exhaust system, no catalyst.
Any and all input appreciated.
Thanks in advance,
Mike
If you want worry free performance go with a log header. Gutted E6 or Bobs.
Tubular headers crack. Nature of the beast. I learned the hard way.
For your goals the gains between tube or log are marginal.
Went from E6 to Bobs log to stinger to Rod's header (center and stock mount) and back to Bobs log.
My Capri made 350 with a stinger header and will make 350-400 with the bobs log if I want it to.
76 Capri II turbo
The only change I see is the
altitude we are at as we head further into the downward spiral
As stated, tubular headers arguably make more power and spool faster than a log-type manifold, but are more prone to cracking. But, the cracking can be somewhat mitigated by using better alloys of S/S - or perhaps mild steel - for their construction (the most common is the fairly low-grade 304, like Stingers' and most eBay headers). Note that even Bob's logs have been known to crack - but, AFAIK, it's fairly rare......and he stands behind 'em.
The design of a tubular header is also a contributing factor to their longevity. My personal opinion (talkin' outta ass here, cuz I've never run one) is that even a Stinger-style header could be made to last by removing all the factory "brace-straps", putting bellows in the "end-tubes" (1 & 4) and supporting the turbo from the bottom of the flange with a pivoting/spring-loaded strut. Flame suit ON! :dunno:
C'ya - RAY
Placerville, California
(former) '78 2.3T Courier w/blow-thru Autolite 2bbl carb ~ (current) '87 2.3T Ranger w/PiMP’d EFI
Bo-Port Header
This one will flow. And it won't crack. And it has a warranty. You'll just have to drop $825 on it.
You can't find better though.
1962 Falcon
MII Front Suspension, 4-Link Rear, 8.8, 5.0 V8 (Formerly 2.3T )
88 Ranger 2wd RB20DET (Formerly 2.3T, sold)
+1 for Bo's header! It's a little pricey but you get what you pay for! Very well built and its an extremely nice piece! My first header and probably my last! Just my 2cents! Good luck with search!
Cody
86 SVO
stg3 essy alum big valve head, Bo's 2.5 cam, stg3 upper and lower, header, hx35, MSII coil on plug(still in building stages)
$800 might sound expensive in the TF community but that quality header for a honda/dms/ anything else is going for around 1300!
i have a "custom" Bo header and love it!
Function before form. Going fast is looking good!
Quote:Originally posted by TurboRay:
As stated, tubular headers arguably make more power and spool faster than a log-type manifold
On two different cars the E6 spooled the turbo sooner, made more tq and had a wider power curve. One of the cars had an ATR header and the other had a Precision header.
I vote for keeping the E6 because it's not holding you back. We've been 11's in the 1/4 using a stock untouched E6.
Everytime I race they have to shut the track down for cleaning...
e6 is fine until you have a lot of other mods.
early on in the mods, you really want to maximize your boost (maybe 17-18psi), and make sure the boost is high quality (front mount intercooler).
i'd also get a wideband o2 sensor and gauge, by far the best purchase you can make to ensure your car is always running safely.
My observations on the ("arguable") advantage[s] of a tubular header were not based on any personal trial-and-error experience, but on commonly-accepted practice in apps where max power is desired and on excerpts such as,
"<font color=brown>.....tubular manifolds can offer a substantial performance advantage over a log-type manifold.</font>" from sources such as Garrett
[<font color=blue>LINK</font>] - who I'm quoting (above), from the last sentence of the second-to-last paragraph in point #3 of that linked article. Just sayin'.......
That being said, I agree that the OP should retain the stock E6 manifold - perhaps treating it to some home porting - and target other items that will yield more bang for his buck. :dunno:
C'ya - RAY
Placerville, California
(former) '78 2.3T Courier w/blow-thru Autolite 2bbl carb ~ (current) '87 2.3T Ranger w/PiMP’d EFI
I vote stay with the E6 as well. Porting them helps it spool faster and will help hp a little.
Not a fan of any of the China/Japanese headers, doesn't matter who's name is on it, They are all pretty much the same,some with a few more braces. I had a SS autochrome one given to me when they first came out to try and it cracked within a week. The guy didn't even want it back so i cut it up and kept the flanges.
It didn't make any more hp then my unported E6 did. I ported it and picked up hp and it's never cracked and I sill have it 10 years ater.