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Can you help me with my motor choice now that i'm rebuilding the motor at home
#1

Hear is what i am thinking on doing


current sewt up 1986 ranger with a 2.3 turbo motor from a 1987 thunderbird turbo coupe with the tiny ihi stock turbo and i have the t-bird intercooler and the 5spd computer with a c-4 with a shift kit my goal is to run as fast as i can on as little money but be very reliabel for a every day driver my goal would love to be in the 13's on motor and turbo no nos

so i have this for plans rebuil the motor to stock specs but with total seal rings and run 18 psi of boost and i have a ranger roller cam with a .420 duration and a 114 lobe seperation and a 220 duration set up also thinking on porting my head with big valves like 1.90's and 1.625's and then port my e-6 manifiold also i'm gonna run 3 inch exhaust dumped just under my box.

I might not do the head and just do the other mods what you think my chances are like running in the 13's i'm also gonna run a 255 lph walbro fuel pump and some street e.ts

thanks for some info from whit alpine hes been a big help with info
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#2

Do the basics. Forget the head and worry about how you are going to make it get traction. That is going to be the big decider in how fast you go at the track. I would also say swap to a T3 turbo since the little bit of boost lag will only help you launch better.
Newbie with dumb newbie questions...
some wiring diagrams and by some , I mean none at all.
1984 GT350 T-top New pics
1984 Turbo GT T-top 419rwhp
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#3

Save the head stuff and spend it on a hybrid t3/t4. You should see some 13's if you are willing to leave hard, like off the limiter. Definitely run a t3 at minimum though, sell the ihi and you shouldn't have to spend much for the upgrade.

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-Paul North-

'88 XR4Ti- 18psi no intercooler with bypass valve, 3" exhaust, full suspension etc.

'88 Mustang Gt- boss block 347, .688 solid roller, TEA canfield heads (306/250 @.700) etc
-Paul North-

'88 XR4Ti- 18psi no intercooler with bypass valve, 3" exhaust, full suspension etc.

'88 Mustang Gt- boss block 347, .688 solid roller, TEA canfield heads (306/250 @.700) etc
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#4

One of the biggest problems you're gonna have running 13's in a Ranger will be traction, or the lack thereof. Try shifting as much weight as possible to the rearmost part of the truck (battery, fuel tank, etc.) and get the widest, stickiest slicks you can fit in the wheelwells.

Hopefully, it's a short bed with a standard cab - since they provide the most weight transfer on launch. On mine, I plan on relocating the rear leaf springs directly under the frame rails and sectioning in portions of another set of Ranger wheelwells to provide more room for wider tires. I'm also thinkin' of installing an adjustable 4-link setup to maximize "anti squat".

I don't know how the ride quality would suffer, but I'll bet if you installed a tubular front axle and got rid of those bulky forged twin I-beams and heavy-ass crossmembers, you could drop nearly 100 pounds. [Image: smile.gif]

C'ya - RAY

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Former 2.3T Courier (carbed/blow-thru) & soon turbo Ranger
Placerville, California
(former)  '78 2.3T Courier w/blow-thru Autolite 2bbl carb ~ (current)  '87 2.3T Ranger w/PiMP’d EFI
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#5

How did you come up with those valve sizes? Low lift flow is going to suffer, and since your using a low lift cam...

Quote:Originally posted by Turbonator:
also thinking on porting my head with big valves like 1.90's and 1.625's and then port my e-6 manifiold also i'm gonna run 3 inch exhaust dumped just under my box.




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For Sale

84 Capri RS Turbo to be replaced, looking for a coupe!
(stock block, worked head, "custom" cam & header/downpipe, TEC II engine management, no intercooler (yet), etc...) 267 rwhp before the TEC II and any tuning with no IC and only 10 psi. New numbers coming.

86 Mustang GT Convertible
(clutch quad, 3.73's, AL DS, MM C/C plates, FRPP "C" springs, MAC catback, broken motor mount)
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