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cheapHP.com adjustable cam gear UPDATE
#31

Thanks for your hard work!
Santana
BLK 88TC,T5,CAI,stock w/IHI at 18psi with stinger 3" dual exhaust, MM lower tubular front arms,konis converted to coil overs and konis in the rear.
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#32

AGAIN! Thanks for the work, FedEX delivered it to my office at 10:00am this morning, it was like christmas. Very nice piece. Very light, I do not have my other stocker handy, to see the difference, I LIKEY!


EDIT: someone was talking about how they would buy if it didnt say cheaphp on it, mine doesnt have any kind of logo other than A & R and timing marks!
88tc-5sp K&N, gillis 222,000+ miles stock short block, 86 head and cam from junkyard.
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#33

Quote:Originally posted by charles88tc:
EDIT: someone was talking about how they would buy if it didnt say cheaphp on it, mine doesnt have any kind of logo other than A & R and timing marks!
that would have been the "Esslinger is god" people, i wasnt going to take the time to argue with them about that, it wouldnt have changed their minds to buy on this group purchase anyhow

im glad you're happy with the product and that it shipped fast for you

enjoy guys
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#34

Got my gear tonight. Looks nice. My only concern is how much metal is on the key on the back of the gear. I'm sure its nothing. Otherwise it "looks" like I nice piece, but I don't know anything about what is "quality" and what is not. This is a learning experience for me. So far, its been great! Thanks again Matt.

-JD-
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#35

Mine is on its way, I'll have to give mine a look when it gets here.
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#36

First off its a nice looking gear and arrived super fast (in time for a weekend install).

Thanks a bunch!

Quote:Originally posted by JonProphet:
Got my gear tonight. Looks nice. My only concern is how much metal is on the key on the back of the gear. I'm sure its nothing.
-JD-
I took mine apart to see what you're talking about:
The load is taken From the teeth on the pulley to where the fasteners are, and then through the fasteners from the black piece into the red hub, and then through the red hub up to the woodruff key into the cam. The load doesn't pass through the piece in the middle. The thin piece in the middle is a nut plate to hold the 4 fasteners. I would have just made both black pieces one piece and then used screw in studs. Nothing on the gear screams "Oh my gawd, its gonna break!". Plus wouldn't the belt snap before the four aluminum spokes of the hub broke?

The gear recieves a twisting load from the friction between the cam and the roller followers/slider/cam bearings/valve springs. And it has a bending load from the tension in the timing belt. Its not like it has to transfer 200 to 400 hp or something, its just gotta turn the cam. I feel confident/safe about running it on my low lift roller cam. Even if the gear self destructs I have a non-interfence motor, so it would just stop running.

The only thing missing on the gear is the little timing mark that points at the intermediate shaft (nothing Mr Center Punch can't take care of).

You know what, you could run one on your intermediate shaft and could set your timing with it, lol. Since its such a PITA to get to the distributor bolt.
84 SVO: Boport stg 1.5 cam & stg 3 head/intake, QH, T3/T04E, FMIC, SC TB, 80mm MAF, 95lb injectors, E85.
74 Celica: Folvo conversion in progress.
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#37

Oh crap I just looked at again, I see the thin spot now its 0.675" by 0.083" in cross section, one for each spoke of the hub. Such a tard.

So it would be a shear load. So for every 100 ft-lbs of torque that would be a shear stress of 7,900 psi in the each web (Assuming each web took the load equally. The yield stress of Aluminum alloys is at least 40,000 psi, so thats a safety margin of 5 for a 100 ft-lb load. So the pulley would have to see a 500 ft-lb load from belt in order to yield the aluminum. But then it would take more torque to actually rip it in half.

BTW a 100 ft/lb torque load is a tension of 560 lb in the belt.

But I'll still use it.

OMG, is the black piece of the gear one or two pieces? It looks like its two pieces but maybe thats the machining marks. If its one piece then its twice as string as I calculated.

I'm such a double tard.
84 SVO: Boport stg 1.5 cam & stg 3 head/intake, QH, T3/T04E, FMIC, SC TB, 80mm MAF, 95lb injectors, E85.
74 Celica: Folvo conversion in progress.
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#38

Ok I took the 4 bolts out of the gear and the black part is one piece .... dahr. :pat:

The head of the button head screws hit that flat plate that fits between the pulley and the cam. Remove the four screws and it fits fine. So I'm gonna replace the bolts with studs, and locktite them back in there. Looks like they are 1/4"-28.

I am so stupid. Soooo stupid.
84 SVO: Boport stg 1.5 cam & stg 3 head/intake, QH, T3/T04E, FMIC, SC TB, 80mm MAF, 95lb injectors, E85.
74 Celica: Folvo conversion in progress.
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#39

Zero is not on the middle mark :eek:
(Assuming the stock cam gear is at zero)

Line up the mark on the red hub in the middle mark on the black gear of the cheaphp gear. Then hold up the cheapHP gear to the stock gear and line up the teeth on the outside of each gear. On my gear the keyway doesn't line up with both gears. If I turn the red hub to line up the key ways on both gears, then the mark on the red gear is aligned with the third mark (on the black gear) from the right (advanced side).

So if each mark is two degrees then I can advance my cam up to 4 degrees from stock or retard my cam 12 degrees from stock using the cheapHP pulley.

Retarding the cam increases top end power, so I guess thats a good thing in my case (I think).

(Edited post its 2 degrees per notch not 1).
84 SVO: Boport stg 1.5 cam & stg 3 head/intake, QH, T3/T04E, FMIC, SC TB, 80mm MAF, 95lb injectors, E85.
74 Celica: Folvo conversion in progress.
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#40

Mike, I can ask Ken again about the timing, but the center line is/should be the 0* mark


I'll look into it though.
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