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DIY Adjustable FPR (AFPR)
#1

If you feel the need for an AFPR, there's a cheap ($5?) alternative to the more expensive aftermarket options. Namely, a J/Y-available (and seemingly-plentiful) Bosch adjustable FPR from the CFI throttle body of a mid-80's 5.0 Ford, Lincoln, Mercury, etc.. They look exactly the same as the Bosch regulator on "our" 2.3T and will directly interchange.....but they don't have the boost-referencing hose nipple on top.

HERE'S  what the TB looks like (ignore braided hoses). See that black-ish hole at the top? There's a small forcing screw in there that accepts a 5mm Allen wrench for pressure adjustment (some have a tiny sheetmetal cover that needs to be popped off for access). There's a hole at the bottom of the Allen-screw that's open to the upper diaphragm chamber for referencing ambient air pressure.

Sooooo.......how do you reference it for boost? Remove the adjustment screw, solder a short length of steel brake tubing into the Allen recess and either solder a small nut around the tube,  as shown below ~ OR, .easier yet.....just cut a screwdriver slot at the top of the tube.

BTW - see the two f/injectors in that TB? Depending on the application, they're either 46's or 52's and are direct-replacements for our smaller 30 or 35pph 2.3T injectors. Wanna "flat rate" the harvesting of those injectors? Take a BFH (big hammer) along and break off the hollow "bridge" that fuels the top of the inj's......you can then pull 'em straight out.

Also, the FPR retaining screws go in from the bottom and you don't wanna have to remove the whole TB for access, do you? A sharp downward "whack" on the back of that air horn using a drift punch or chunk of wood with your BFH will snap it right off.......yielding easy access to those screws.  [Image: happy0034.gif]

[Image: TGOb1k6.jpg?1]
Placerville, California
(former)  '78 2.3T Courier w/blow-thru Autolite 2bbl carb ~ (current)  '87 2.3T Ranger w/PiMP’d EFI
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#2

I guess my links don't work. But i figured you of all folks would of caught this ray. Wink

http://forum.turboford.org/cgi-bin/ultim...270#000000
Josh
1991 Ford Ranger 2.3 Turbo
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#3

Dang links need updated. lol

http://turbolx.150m.com/The-fuel-regulator.htm
Josh
1991 Ford Ranger 2.3 Turbo
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#4

Thanks for posting.

I have 2 of those cfi t-bodies lying around so I'll check them out.
Alan Mackin
6 Fox T-birds plus:'86 TC NHRA/IHRA Stocker/Super Stocker 
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#5

BUMP   Smile
Placerville, California
(former)  '78 2.3T Courier w/blow-thru Autolite 2bbl carb ~ (current)  '87 2.3T Ranger w/PiMP’d EFI
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#6

A Standard Motor Products PR557 is the adjustable version of a stock regulator. It looks (and I suspect is) identical to the one Accel sells for $100+., but I just got one from Rock Auto for $45 to my door. That's also $20 less than a Kirban regulator rebuild kit.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php...8524&jsn=3

I was going to cut the top off of a stock reg and make an adjustable top hat like B&M used to offer for Hondas, but ultimately decided my time was more valuable. The spare late '80s reg I cut open also had a very stiff diaphragm that leads me to think junkyard soft parts are probably getting pretty questionable after 35-40 years.
'72 Pinto Runabout-2.3T/T5/MS-II.
We were Ford men and we likely knew that we would race until somethin' blew.
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#7

(11-13-2022, 07:06 PM)65ShelbyClone Wrote:  A Standard Motor Products PR557 is the adjustable version of a stock regulator. It looks (and I suspect is) identical to the one Accel sells for $100+., but I just got one from Rock Auto for $45 to my door. That's also $20 less than a Kirban regulator rebuild kit.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php...8524&jsn=3

I was going to cut the top off of a stock reg and make an adjustable top hat like B&M used to offer for Hondas, but ultimately decided my time was more valuable. The spare late '80s reg I cut open also had a very stiff diaphragm that leads me to think junkyard soft parts are probably getting pretty questionable after 35-40 years.

This seems like a good budget option.  The question is how to best modify it for boost reference. It's tempting to think one could maybe drill out the adjustment screw, but not sure if that would provide adequate signal.
'89 XR4RS
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#8

(11-20-2022, 02:31 AM)Wyatt Wrote:  This seems like a good budget option.  The question is how to best modify it for boost reference.  
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No need to modify it, Wyatt......the adjustment screw is already drilled. Simply slide your manifold-reference hose over the screw AND nipple into which it's threaded ~ and you're done.  <thumbup>

[Image: 51k6Z9idpaL._AC_SY580_.jpg]
Placerville, California
(former)  '78 2.3T Courier w/blow-thru Autolite 2bbl carb ~ (current)  '87 2.3T Ranger w/PiMP’d EFI
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#9

(11-20-2022, 11:36 PM)TurboRay Wrote:  
(11-20-2022, 02:31 AM)Wyatt Wrote:  This seems like a good budget option.  The question is how to best modify it for boost reference.  
.
No need to modify it, Wyatt......the adjustment screw is already drilled. Simply slide your manifold-reference hose over the screw AND nipple into which it's threaded ~ and you're done.  <thumbup>

It really is an ideal solution then. I thought it looked like it, but wasn't sure if that hole went all the way through.
'89 XR4RS
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#10

The original application for it is mid-'80s CFI 5.0s like the one Ray made this thread about. It's exactly like the adjustable ones I think Holley offered 20+ years ago for the 5.0 HO which, of course, had to be referenced to manifold pressure like the non-adjustable stock one.
'72 Pinto Runabout-2.3T/T5/MS-II.
We were Ford men and we likely knew that we would race until somethin' blew.
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