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Doing a 88 TC 2.3t swap to a fox body getting info/parts list now to get a head start
#21

On the rear end....

98 Mustang 8.8 (and v6's have 7.5's) is wider than the fox body. 1 1/2" total as I recall, which is the same as a turbocoupe. Housing is the same but the axles themselves are wider. 99-04 are 2.5" wider overall, housing AND axles are wider. So if you are looking at a 98 to rob the rear, make SURE it's not a 99 (yes I know the body style is different but I'm guilty of making a mistake like that).

TC rear end will go right into a fox body. It is about 1 1/2" total wider than the stock fox body, but the housing is the same width. Where the issues arise is the brackets. The caliper brackets are offset to center the calipers over the wider TC rotors with their wider axles. One way "around" this is to cut the brackets so that they'll slide over the axle housing. In doing so, you'll lose one bolt hole, leaving 3 to hold the brackets to the flange. Then flip the brackets left to right, in other words put the left bracket on the right side and the right bracket on the left side but they are bolted to the INSIDE of the housing flange rather than to the outside (which is why you have to "notch" the brackets to fit over the housing) but they still aren't centered perfectly, off about 1/8". Parking brake cables--you have to address those too and being a pre-1993, you'll have a little more work to do. Also with the park brake, you should modify the parking brake handle by welding the ratchet to the 3rd tooth and then cut the spring so it doesn't pull the cables all the time. The SN95's had rear discs already and the handle assembly mostly bolts into fox body cars and is already set up for rear discs. SN95 rear discs are 5 lug, and they are different, if you go that route, change the front spindles to SN95 stuff and use 94-95 brakes on the front as well. V6 and V8 are the same, Cobra was larger. 2nd (and probably better) option--pick up a pair of brackets specifically made for the purpose from North Race Cars; which center the calipers over the rotors properly. Doing the TC rear with factory TC discs is almost identical to the 93 cobra, so with that setup you can use V8 fox body front brakes and a Cobra master cylinder; it all works together properly. Probably better if you use a 93 Cobra booster too but that's not entirely necessary; many (including myself) have gotten by just fine without changing the booster. Also the proportioning valve really should be addressed if you are driving on the streets at all. Again, this information is out there, it is a common swap.

Now on the SN95 stuff...to clear it up before anyone says anything there are two types of SN95 front brake spindles, 94-95 and then 96-04. 94-95 have the steering arm in a slightly different location than the stock fox body stuff, and the 96-04 was WAY off, both necessitating a bump steer adjustment, usually via bump steer kit. Is it necessary? I say so. I have a '92 and did the SN95 brake swap but I used 97 spindles and 2004 calipers (twin piston where 94-95 were single piston). I drove the car for a little while without addressing the difference in steering arm height and couldn't really notice anything "odd"; mainly because our roads around here are POOR (to be nice about it--I call them trails). I went ahead and did the bump steer stuff, using maximum motorsports parts and their instructions and the difference is amazing. What was what I called "typical fox body wander" is totally gone now. As said, if you're using SN95 fronts, they are 5 lug, which matches up well with SN95 rear brakes and 5 lug wheels, BUT you MUST use the north race cars brackets to use SN95 rear discs on the fox body housing, and YES, you can use them on a 7.5 rear too, which is what I am doing as we speak, on a customer's car. I don't really see the need for the 8.8 unless you can get it cheap, and you're making more than about 300hp. The 7.5 with street tires will last a long time; the weak link is the spider gears and the next weak link would be the pinion and then the caps. Way back in the day, it was not uncommon for guys running hot street to run a 7.5 rear end because it is a little lighter and uses slightly less power to run it than the 8.8 does, and these guys were knocking on the door of 9 second ET's. They didn't last forever but they lasted a lot longer than I would have thought they would.

I put a 3G 130A alternator on mine too, why? Because I had it already. The baby 3G is supposed to be a piece of junk but I never once had any problems out of them that weren't high mileage units or just abused. The baby 3G fits the bracket better (on my '93 with original 93 brackets) where the 130A needed quite a bit of clearancing. Secondly the baby 3G may have been more efficient, perhaps putting less drag on the engine. I was seeing 30-32 mpg with it, then put the 130 on and dropped a little--nothing else was changed. One thing worth noting is the amp draw of electric fans. The stock 2.3 fan pulls about 20A running full bore. I couldn't fit the stock fan with the Stinger intercooler piping and had to resort to using up my last Contour dual fan which is a lot slimmer, but it's inrush is around 70A, and runs at 33A with both fans on high (which is the way I have it wired). Additionally, on my '92 (which is a V8, apples to oranges here, well maybe), the running amp draw excluding the fans is around 30A, including the headlights and brake lights (excluding fog lights). Add that to the 33A that the fans pull, and the stock 65A 2G alternator just barely (and I mean BARELY) kept up. switching the tail, brake, and signal lighting to LED's dropped the lighting load from 22A to 4 1/2A, BUT the cruise control does not work properly now. I have not done LED headlamps yet and do not know if I am going to. Considering doing LED markers, signals, on tails on my '93 coupe (turbo 2.3), however, and putting the 95A rebuilt baby 3G back on for giggles to see what it does. IF you do choose to upgrade the alternator, whether it be 95A or 130A, you MUST upgrade the alternator charge wiring as it was designed to work around a 65A alternator, and if/when your electrical needs are such that you need that 95A or 130A, the stock alternator wiring will smoke the fusible links. I just got a fuse assembly from a Ford pickup out of the junkyard to use with the 130A alternator as most of them were 3G (mine came from a truck that had a 5.4, for what it's worth), IIRC it's a 150A fuse. Real easy to make up a new alternator harness using 4g wire, some lugs, and a fuse from the junkyard.

Some say that reducing electrical draw on the alternator is worthless but modern cars are going to ALL LED lighting, and it got my interest (in more ways than one). So on my '92, I had the laptop sitting in the car the other day with it running, watching ipsibr, which is an idle air correction. Basically the higher the number, the more air it is adding. Ideally you want it to be around .00 to .04, any more and it kind of throws the idle quality out of kilter. It is a percentage of how much idle air the IAC is adding, so at .040, it's adding roughly 40%. Anyway, I was watching it bounce around .280 or so with the electric fans off, and was instructed by the tuner to open the throttle blade (90mm....) by one full turn. Did that and got ipsibr to around .025 with the fans off, when the fans come on (high), ipsibr changes from .025 to roughly .200, which is quite a bit. Out of curiousity, with the car idling/fans off, I went ahead & turned the headlights on bright, fogs on, brake lights on and watched ipsibr drop to about .110 (all LED except headlamps), so there IS a good bit of draw from lighting alone, which may explain why OEM's are using them--to help them improve emissions and MPG.
'93 Mustang 2.3T swapped. LA3, Stinger FMIC 3" down elbow and 3" exhaust.
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#22

I think the TC had a larger clutch and pressure plate than a NA 2.3. But both fit in the bell housing.
1963 Chevy Impala
1941 Chevy coupe
1931 Ford Tudor 2.3 Turbo; T5; 9" ford diff; P.I.M.P ECU
1984 Stang with 88 TC driveline.
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#23

Yes, 8.5" vs 9".
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#24

here is the ranger alt bracket i used. it does line up the alt to the TC pulleys nicely. 
       
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#25

(02-08-2020, 06:52 PM)sturner1254 Wrote:  here is the ranger alt bracket i used. it does line up the alt to the TC pulleys nicely. 

Thanks you happen to know what years that came on?

So finally got some progress in...

Yanked the 2.3t+T5 out of the rusty turbo coupe. Accidentally broke a sensor on the intake in the process so that's gotta get replaced once I figure out which one it is. Any ideas Air intake or coolant perhaps??
   

Also realized I need a different T5 trans mount/cross member as the turbo coupe one has a single bolt on it vs the 2 stud setup on a typical fox body on its cross member.
   

Im not super sure about the motor mount placement into the K Member but I had to call it quits for last night. It looks like the motor mounts can used either way (bracket to K member) either stud towards to the front or towards the firewall. Also missing the nuts that go on the mounts. I believe its M14 nuts. 
             

Once I know the motor is in its correctly next is to pull the bell housing and swap to cable setup. Toss in a new throw out bearing, pilot bearing, rear main seal, ect.
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#26

(02-09-2020, 02:04 PM)ianb Wrote:  Accidentally broke a sensor on the intake......Any ideas Air intake or coolant perhaps??

I'm pretty sure that's the knock sensor, Ian......especially if the hole it's screwed into is "blind" (doesn't go all the way thru). Most folks disconnect that sensor anyway, soooo......no biggie. [Image: confused0024.gif]
Placerville, California
(former)  2.3T '78 Courier ~ (current)  2.3T '87 Ranger & '82 Mazda B2200 (smog-exempt diseasel truck)
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#27

pretty sure they were from a 90. i think they were used from late 80's to 91. but if you are wanting to rotate your intake then you might want to use the 92up bracket as it moves it to the pass side low.
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#28

(02-09-2020, 05:25 PM)TurboRay Wrote:  
(02-09-2020, 02:04 PM)ianb Wrote:  Accidentally broke a sensor on the intake......Any ideas Air intake or coolant perhaps??

I'm pretty sure that's the knock sensor, Ian......especially if the hole it's screwed into is "blind" (doesn't go all the way thru). Most folks disconnect that sensor anyway, soooo......no biggie. [Image: confused0024.gif]


Somebody else confirmed it was a knock sensor as well and im not gonna run one so not a total loss.
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#29

Yeah I tried to do this swap in a weekend. Ain't no way--and I planned it out months ahead of time. Internet is rarely 100% correct. 3 months later it was in/running. It's always those little things that add up. Oh and don't ever listen to anyone that tells you that it's a "bolt-in" because "bolt-in" in it's true meaning is extremely rare.
'93 Mustang 2.3T swapped. LA3, Stinger FMIC 3" down elbow and 3" exhaust.
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#30

When I did the swap I did the mechanical engine/trans removal from TC/install in Mustang and pedal assembly swap the first weekend, then the went to school all week while I tried to figure out the wiring stuff studying pinouts and info on here (there were no turbo swap guides then so no better time to try to figure it out than while I'm supposed to be paying attention in HS classes). Then the next weekend I did all of the turbo swap wiring, upgraded the fuel pump, installed the intercooler (custom tubing since a kit didn't exist), fabbed up a downpipe, and finished up the last details of the trans swap (shifter install, putting interior back together, etc.) and installed the Ranger radiator and GM fan. Didn't quite get it all nailed down as far as wiring goes and took a little help from a guy on here to figure out a few details with the wiring, then it was running mid-week.

So it took about 12-13 days on the calendar but it was really about 4 1/2 days of actual working on it to do two engine removals, one engine install, trans swap, wiring changes, and fabricating Volvo IC kit and downpipe. People tend to work a little faster as a teen though (more energy, less responsibilities).
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