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EFR downpipe...?
#1

To all that are running the EFR, what did you do for the downpipe?
Stock location or header?
Custom made or purchased?
I'll keep my guns, money, and freedom. You keep the "change"
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#2

There are none to purchase and I can't imagine anyone running one in stock location since the turbos are so long you'd have a greatly compromised bend trying to clear the firewall.

So that leaves you with header and custom made as the remaining options. Depending on the header, we offer a "no flange" version for center mount turbos where it's bent in the shape needed and you weld on the flange you need (and maybe trim the length of the pipe where the flange is welded on to account for the added length of the EFR turbo).
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#3

(11-20-2020, 07:40 AM)Stinger Wrote:  There are none to purchase and I can't imagine anyone running one in stock location since the turbos are so long you'd have a greatly compromised bend trying to clear the firewall.

If firewall clearance is an issue, just throwing a thought out there, if a conventional mandrel bend won't fit, look into a "cobra head" type elbow. I know there's some exhaust ones available on the 4 cylinder B and F Cummins industrial engines. They bend tighter, but flare out to the side for the same cross sectional area. You may have seen that type of elbow on turbo inlets before. They can make a really tight bend without losing any real performance.
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#4

.
Not pickin' on you, wicked ~ BUT......I can't imagine spending $1500-ish on a state-of-the-art EFR turbo and then "bottlenecking" it with what appears to be a fairly-restrictive $$$ cobra-head elbow (<-- link):

[Image: proxy.php?image=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.glenss...0ab823eaad] [Image: s-l640.jpg]

If retaining yer A/C is the goal......it can be done with a good-flowing 1.25-pipe center-mount Bo header, as depicted below on Matt Svenson's ("onesillynotch") Mustang that was gleaned from the "A/C with Bo Header?" .thread you recently posted to.    <shrug>

[Image: ZwAPGHZ.jpg?1]
Placerville, California
(former)  '78 2.3T Courier w/blow-thru Autolite 2bbl carb ~ (current)  '87 2.3T Ranger w/PiMP’d EFI
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#5

While the cobra head elbows are certainly better than a normal elbow that's not cut tangent to the bend centerline, I'd like to see some real flow data before I accepted that they flow anywhere near as good as a larger radius elbow. The basic idea with airflow is any time it changes direction it loses flow, if it changes size it loses flow, and if it changes direction quickly (tight radius) it loses more flow. The cobra head fixes one of the three flow problems.

I agree that I'd have a hard time installing an EFR in a compromised position (too close to the firewall) and I'd find it difficult to put it on a cast manifold as well (though that's more acceptable in my mind than the firewall issue).
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#6

(11-20-2020, 07:37 PM)TurboRay Wrote:  .
Not pickin' on you, wicked ~ BUT......I can't imagine spending $1500-ish on a state-of-the-art EFR turbo and then "bottlenecking" it with what appears to be a fairly-restrictive $$$ cobra-head elbow

You'd be surprised how effective they can be. They're normally <10% more restrictive than the comparable cast elbow (at least for the peak flow for that platform, that's another discussion) That's part of the design verification on the manufacturer's side. They're pretty sensitive to restriction limits on the performance and emissions side.

I sure wouldn't advocate buying one through the distributor network like that though. You would not believe the markup.
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#7

(11-20-2020, 07:40 AM)Stinger Wrote:  ...Depending on the header, we offer a "no flange" version for center mount turbos where it's bent in the shape needed and you weld on the flange you need (and maybe trim the length of the pipe where the flange is welded on to account for the added length of the EFR turbo).

Got it, Thanks! (Product Code: HDP-NoFlange). This will be option 1 depending on space when I get the BoPort twin-scroll / EFR installed.
Hoping to mate it all to your FMIC (and still keep my A/C).

(11-23-2020, 12:49 PM)wickedsnake00 Wrote:  ...I sure wouldn't advocate buying one through the distributor network like that though. You would not believe the markup.

Thanks for the tip!! Depending on how things place with the EFR and Boport twin scroll header, this may be a necessary 2nd option.
Any recommendations on a purchase source other than the "distributor network?"
I'll keep my guns, money, and freedom. You keep the "change"
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#8

(11-23-2020, 03:41 PM)84CapriRS Wrote:  This will be option 1 depending on space when I get the BoPort twin-scroll / EFR installed. 
.
Sooooo.........what do you intend to install the EFR on? Center or stock-location header, or.....stock or flipped manifold?  <shrug>
Placerville, California
(former)  '78 2.3T Courier w/blow-thru Autolite 2bbl carb ~ (current)  '87 2.3T Ranger w/PiMP’d EFI
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#9

(11-23-2020, 06:13 PM)TurboRay Wrote:  
(11-23-2020, 03:41 PM)84CapriRS Wrote:  This will be option 1 depending on space when I get the BoPort twin-scroll / EFR installed. 
.
Sooooo.........what do you intend to install the EFR on? Center or stock-location header, or.....stock or flipped manifold?  <shrug>

Need super low-end torque for auto-crossing, will be going with the BoPort twin-scroll and "smallish" EFR.
2.4L stroked long rod (VW diesel rods) shortblock w/ceramic coated pistons, Shlodes ported in-line intake on a BoPort head and a Stinger FMIC (likely - unless I can do a vertical-side mount next to a smaller radiator), all on E85.
Turbo Coupe T5 (steeper 2nd gear), aluminum flywheel.
And lotsa Maximum Motorsports goodies. 

Still gotta work out the launch on the PIMP, that'll have to wait until spring, got it stored away for winter.
I'll keep my guns, money, and freedom. You keep the "change"
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#10

(11-23-2020, 06:39 PM)84CapriRS Wrote:  1) Need super low-end torque for auto-crossing, will be going with the BoPort twin-scroll and "smallish" EFR.

2) 2.4L stroked long rod (VW diesel rods).  
.
Has BW begun making twin-scroll exhaust housings/wheels for the smallest EFR's? I haven't checked for years, but they were formerly only available in (I THINK) T4 versions(??).

1) For low/mid-range grunt, I suggest (a) Asking Bo if he can make that header with 1.25" tubing......like he did many years ago for Matt Svenson's (onesillynotch) single-scroll version, and (b) Using stock intake-valve sizes and asking Schlodes to keep the intake runners and ports on the small side for velocity rather than increased high-RPM flow potential.

2) VW diseasel rods? .Very interesting! Most of the OEM diseasel stuff that I'm familiar with is oversized/heavy, which - in my alleged mind - seems counter-productive to quick acceleration outta the turns. How long are they and what big & little hole-sizes do they have? BTW ~ I thought longer rods were mostly beneficial for improving top-end .power, while shorter rods are what help low-end grunt (see below)?? <puzzled>

Example: The following quotation was plagiarized from THIS article ="Shorter rods mean the overall height of the block can be shorter, which means the overall weight of the block can be lighter. The engine will typically pull more vacuum at low RPM, which means better throttle response and low end torque (good for street performance and everyday driving). Spark timing can be advanced a few degrees for some additional low speed torque, and the engine is less prone to detonation, which can be a plus in turbocharged, supercharged or nitrous applications.". 

Will you be "stroking" by offset-grinding the crank? If so, you'll need to reduce the stock 2.3 rod-journal diameter (2.0468) by at least .1375 to gain the .275 additional stroke for 2.4 liters (ASSuming stock 3.78 bore). If you're not limited to 2.4L, you could use an off-the-shelf 2.5 Ranger crank (with a late .2.3/2.5 small-journal block or bearing spacers)......BUT, they're also .heavier (center counterweighted), which again .might inhibit "off-corner" acceleration (altho I have seen 2.5 counterweights "trimmed").  <shrug>
Placerville, California
(former)  '78 2.3T Courier w/blow-thru Autolite 2bbl carb ~ (current)  '87 2.3T Ranger w/PiMP’d EFI
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