[Schlodes]

Ordered my Motorsport rear end cover and the bushing install kit as I am gonna install the 8.8 into my svo soon.

I asked him about the "f 150 clutch S spring for the trac loc" and he says that they are all the same S spring for trac loc equipped 8.8s. Looked it up and called me back b/c he wasn't sure himself at first...

Does anyone know of a specific part number for the F 150 S spring so I can call him back and give it to him?

Thanks.

[TurboTodd]

Ford Racing used to sell one, don't know whether that's the same as the F150 S spring or not, though, sorry. I do know that on my F150, when I rebuilt the rear end, there were 2 plates stacked up, then one friction, then 2 plates....and so on. In all, there were only 3 frictions, IIRC. I alternated them like you would think they'd normally be (like an auto trans or M/C clutch) and I must say....the thing is TIGHT. It will chirp the tires around corners if I have enough speed and just the right throttle. Mind you, the S spring I have in mine came from a broken (yes...broken axle tube) 8.8 in a '96 Mustang. I lost the original S spring that was in the F150--and had to get this one from the JY.

[Xchief1320]

He is either stupid or being lazy.
Ask him to look up the differential S-spring for a 87 mustang GT,Then ask him to look one up for a 93 F150 4x4.They will be different #'s.get the one for the F150..

But i will say the S-spring won't help alot.Yes it will give more preload on the clutches,but it won't be enough to do much good.
I have installed a few because the customer just had to have it. Most the time i use the stock s spring and repack the clutches steel/clutch/steel/clutch,ect instead of the factory way which is steel steel/clutch/steel steel/clutch ect.
So you reuse one of you old clutches (I pick the best one on each side and reuse it) or you have to buy 2 clutch rebuild kits.
I make it to where i just can get the side gears in.They last for a while and no one wheel wonders..
Also add half a bottle of friction modifier at first and drive it for a little bit.If the rearend chatters after 20-30 miles add the other half of the bottle.
For a performance rearend you want as LITTLE friction modifier as possible.The more you put in it the more it will allow the clutches to slip so they don't chatter..

Good luck
Steve

[Schlodes]

OK,
Thanks alot for the info. The rear is 3.73, out of a decent mileage auto TC, so I am ASSuming the clutches to be in really good shape, as I doubt the car the rear came out of had the power to really even spin the tires much [was BONE stock ther rest of the car is still in the junkyard - motor is coming here next].

I was already thinking I was going to add little to no friction modifier. The car is lucky if it sees 30 miles in a week, usually it sees half that.

I'll probbaly just go to my local dealer and order the S spring for the F 150 anyways as I dont want to get into repacking the clutches and stuff.. [i'll build this rear up GOOD later] more just wanted to put my axles from the SVO in and go for this season...

Thanks again.

[4x2offroad]

In order to replace the "S" spring the rear has to be open anyway,take the extra 45mins and re-pack the clutches.All the spring does is add a small bit of pre-load on the clutches to reduce oil film thickness between them.Ford is going to hit you for around $30-40 for the spring,keep your stock spring and put in a $45-50 Rebuild kit.The spring will make no noticable diffrence if your clutches are even half worn.Rebuilding the L/S is very easy and requires no special tools(ie depth indicator etc.)A 8mm Open end removes the pinion shaft lock bolt,the pinion shaft falls out,push in on the axles(may have to remove calipers to get enough "push")use a screwdriver or magnetic pickup tool to pull the "C" clips and the axles slide out(about 4" is enough)Remove the "S" spring and rotate the spider gears so they can be removed(keep the little "CUP" behind the spiders.Now remove the side gears,keeping the clutches,steels and shims together if necessary.Do this for both sides being carefull not to switch sides.The clutch plate nearest the side gear will have 1 brand new side that has never rubbed on any thing,assemble the new disks on the side gear C-S-C-S-C-S-C and add the thinnest thickness shim that comes with the kit,re-assemble the side gears and spiders in the diff,everything should go in easy and the spiders should rotate in pretty easy.Now repeat this procedure using progressivly thicker shims until you are just able to rotate the spiders in.Replace the axles "S" spring,c-clips and pinion shaft and be sure to use the "new" pinion shaft bolt that comes with the kit as it already has the "locktight"on the threads.As mentioned before use the least amount of Friction modifier as necessary to keep the rear from making noise (usually while turning)Personnaly I don't use it but my uses(Offroading)are diffrent than yours.Sorry this is so long but I don't recall ever reading anything around here about this and its good to know.Good luck.

[Schlodes]

Hmm... well, seeing as how some of that stuff has to com eout anyways to remove the axles maybe i'll do a clutch kit rebuild then and install them the way you say.

Since this has gone this far....

What do you guys think of the powertrax lockers?

[BeefFajitas]

$30 a spring?!?! I paid $11 at a Ford dealership.

[Reeve]

Yea the spring is cheap and it alot more pre load. I would go for new discs. I have been in quite a few 8.8 cars that had an easy life and not more than 80k and once you start driving them hard the limited slip wears very quickly. You might want to have a press or a friend over to help you get the F150 spring into the diff they can be very hard to install.

[Schlodes]

Hmm,

I got the housing down to just that this morn.. basically just the housing with the diff and gears... got the old axles, axle seals, old disc brackets off, etc...

The axle bearings [in the outer axle tubes] look to be in good shape and the TC axles were wore nice and smooth, no lips or pits, so I think I am gonna leave the bearings alone... I was told you need a tool of some sort to remove em?

Hmm I guess i'll call RCO back and order a clutch pack rebuild kit then. I'll order the 150 spring from Fords.

Sidenote.. I ordered rear brake pads for my SVO from the same guy I got the girdle etc, from, and he can only find one company who makes em, and wants $130 CDN for them.. [rear pads] what are you guys paying for SVO rear pads?

Thanks.

[TurboRay]

Originally posted by 4x2offroad:


.....assemble the new disks on the side gear C-S-C-S-C-S-C.....

Hmmmmmmmm...........it's been awhile since I assembled one of those things - but, I don't think that's the order that Ford recommends for stacking the discs. If you were to do it the way you've described, a lined disc would be wearing against the actual case. I'm pretty sure that the stack should at least end with a steel to prevent that from happening. Hopefully, Ford still includes a sheet with the rebuild kit that describes/shows the proper order. :dunno:

C'ya - RAY