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FINDING TRUE TDC
#11

Quote:Originally posted by NigelM:
posted 05-30-2012 15:08
posted 05-27-2018 11:07

It took six years to gather the TDC stops together? ? Are they camera shy?
Ray had to wait for the Polaroid film to develop... Big Grin
1986 SVO daily driver. PiMP v1.4/3" Stinger exhaust/FMIC/Schlodes Manifolds/Boport 2.1 and head/GM 3700 stall 200-4R auto trans
1963 2.3T Ranchero Project
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#12

(Just saw this) WOW.....tough crowd, lol!! :eek:

FYI, I had just linked this FAQ-Submission post in a recent thread when I realized that I had never taken pics of the stops, as requested by "stangbirdmutt" about 6-ish posts above. :dunno: <font color=brown>
Placerville, California
(former)  '78 2.3T Courier w/blow-thru Autolite 2bbl carb ~ (current)  '87 2.3T Ranger w/PiMP’d EFI
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#13

Follow up question: now that I know what the correct TDC point is on the pulley, how do I adjust the timing pointer (I have Mike Croke's mcmachine piece)?

WIth the stop removed what is my reference for the piston being at TDC? It can't be the original TDC mark so I'm struggling with the last step of 'fixing' the pointer.

Thanks
84 Capri RS Turbo - total rebuild. Running, 7 years later.
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#14

You're right, Chris.......those instructions that I posted so many years ago - altho correct - aren't really complete! [Image: duh.gif]

After making a 3rd/central mark that's equidistant between the two "piston stopped" marks (one at the CW position and the other at the CCW position), rotate the motor so that that center mark aligns with whatever you were using as a pointer (probably the "0"/TDC mark on your existing timing tab ~ but, it also could've been a temporary pointer made with a piece of wire bolted to the block). Doing so puts the motor at "true" TDC.

You can then either make a new mark on the dampener or pulley that aligns with the TDC mark on yer stock timing tab OR if yer MC Machine timing tab is adjustable, simply loosen the locking nuts/bolts and align the tabs' TDC mark to the existing mark on yer crank pulley/dampener. [Image: anim_32.gif]
Placerville, California
(former)  '78 2.3T Courier w/blow-thru Autolite 2bbl carb ~ (current)  '87 2.3T Ranger w/PiMP’d EFI
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#15

Yes, an adjustable pointer makes that last step super easy: https://www.stinger-performance.com/stor...r-ford-2.3
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|->PiMPxs & PiMPx ECU\'s<-| SVOx3, Turbo 06 GT
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#16

And what is the consensus on rotating the engine CCW? Will / could this relief valve hang up causing oil pressure issues?

Perhaps go slow?
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#17

(12-25-2021, 09:04 PM)XR'd Wrote:  And what is the consensus on rotating the engine CCW?  Will / could this relief valve hang up causing oil pressure issues?

I've heard that theory B4 (in post #7, for example, Joe Laramee sez it's a very bad idea) ~ BUT.......I'm not convinced. Rotating a positive-displacement pump backward would supposedly cause it to try and draw oil from the galleries and deposit it into the sump thru the pickup. 

However, I can't imagine that happening, due to the high flow resistance of the oil passageways in the block. Instead, I'm pretty sure that the pump would simply cavitate......just like to would if you blocked the oil pickup with the engine running. 

Besides, the pump's spring-loaded "poppet" (pres relief valve) only gets unseated due to excessive pressure. OTOH, negative "pressure" (vacuum) would simply try to suck it closed. IOW, it should remain motionless in its' bore.  My 2¢........  <shrug>
Placerville, California
(former)  '78 2.3T Courier w/blow-thru Autolite 2bbl carb ~ (current)  '87 2.3T Ranger w/PiMP’d EFI
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