[svomgb]

When installing the cam belt what feature is used to put the cam to zero? If the keyway is straight up is that zero? The documentation I have found on line refers to the mark on the belt cover in stock Volvos but I don't have that.
Is there a generally accepted advance or retard of the cams considered to be good?
Thanks

[TurboRay]

The documentation I have found online refers to the mark on the belt cover in stock Volvos but I don't have that.

I don't have a B234F Volvo or Folvo engine ~ BUT.......I likewise found the same thing when I searched: Namely, that the only way to set cam timing is with the factory marks/dimples/whatever that are on the rear half of the belt cover. If it were a SOHC head, you could set the cam "straight up" (zero) utilizing the split overlap that's ground in. But, alas, that's not an option.

Since you don't have that rear half of the cam cover with the factory marks ~ and apparently don't plan on installing one......I suggest getting one anyway and - using just the upper half - cut out and remove all but about 2-inches of the perimeter (so it resembles a giant horseshoe), slide it into place above the cams and behind the sprockets, and bolt it in place with the two upper bolts that reside below the sprockets. VOILA......temporary cam-timing marks.  <shrug>

[Howard]

Personally, I would degree the cams.
To do so, you need the factory camshaft centerlines. I would contact someone like YoshiFab or Delta Cams, as they would know the factory numbers.
After you set the cams, you could make a permanent alignment mark on the head for future reference. I would make that mark at the FACTORY timing location, then make any performance adjustments, as that way you have a factory-designed reference point to return to.

[TurboRay]

.
As you know, Howard.....degreeing the cams requires two relatively-expensive vernier cam sprockets. I had ASSumed that Dennis just wanted to get it running before blueprinting, tuning, or modifying it? <shrug>

[svomgb]

I have adjustable sprockets on both cams.

[TurboRay]

. 
Well then...........nevermind, Dennis!

Instead, do as Howard said and locate/degree the cams via the intake-centerline method, using dial indicators. If aftermarket cams, those figures should be on the destructions (cam card). If stock cams, you'll need to glean that info online or from a Volvo site, or ???? (Yoshifab?)  <shrug>

[Howard]

I don't agree that the vernier cam gears are needed to degree the cams, Ray. We are only trying to time the cams to the crank within one belt notch. Heck, the stock engines don't have vernier gears, right? The distance between the two correct gear teeth is an exact dimension, so in theory, if you set one, the other is relative easy to get right
Now, to get them PERFECT... then yes, the adjustable gears are needed!

[TurboRay]

I don't agree that the vernier cam gears are needed to degree the cams, Ray.  

.
I guess your definition of "degreeing" the cam(s) is different than mine, Howard.  <stickpoke>  

Say, "Hi" to Michele.

[Howard]

I don't agree that the vernier cam gears are needed to degree the cams, Ray.  

.
I guess your definition of "degreeing" the cam(s) is different than mine, Howard.  <stickpoke>  

Say, "Hi" to Michele.

Well, I DO agree with you, Ray, but if we consider that the plastic Belt cover is not THAT accurate, the belt can only be adjusted to within one tooth, and that our eyeballs would never align the gear and cover perfectly, the engine designers must not see accuracy too important.  
In fact, the reality with a Folvo is that we are using the idler pulleys to take up the belt slack to time the cams to the crank.

Please give your lovely bride "M" our regards as well!

[Jerry J]

I have no experience with this but found this post on another site that may help.
https://forums.turbobricks.com/showthrea...230+bottom