[invisibomb]

i recently changed the TFI module on my 88 merkur, but i cannot get it to start since then. I have even tried to change it back to the original TFI module, but no luck.
I did notice the harness looked strange and i was hoping if anyone could tell me if its normal or not.

[TurboRay]

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Did you remove the distributor to replace the module? Why did you replace it to begin with? What’s “lacking”.....spark or fuel (40-ish psi rail pressure AND injector signal [injectors clicking] while cranking?

BTW.....WELCOME to TurboFord......what’s your name?

[invisibomb]

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Did you remove the distributor to replace the module? Why did you replace it to begin with? What’s “lacking”.....spark or fuel (40-ish psi rail pressure AND injector signal [injectors clicking] while cranking?

BTW.....WELCOME to TurboFord......what’s your name?

I did remove the distributor to replace the TFI. I replaced it because i was having an erratic idle and my tach was going crazy. I've tried the old TFI module and the new one and there is no difference. I can see that im getting spark by testing with my timing light, but i do not hear the fuel system pressurize and I honestly cant tell if im hearing the injectors open or not. I have not gotten a single misfire and it does not smell like im letting unburned fuel through.

[Mike C]

This will not help if you put the distributor back without timing it, BUT that being said;

Any time my tach was "bouncing" around while idling, it was caused by low voltage. Check your voltage and alternator output, Charge the battery and retry.

The "HOW TO " for timing of the distributor and belt can be found with a search.
HTH
Mike

[invisibomb]

This will not help if you put the distributor back without timing it, BUT that being said;

Any time my tach was "bouncing" around while idling, it was caused by low voltage. Check your voltage and alternator output, Charge the battery and retry.

The "HOW TO " for timing of the distributor and belt can be found with a search.
HTH
Mike

I did set the timing. I've tried anything from 20-10 degrees btdc. I don't hear my fuel pumps prime at all though.  I appreciate any ideas anyone has. Thanks much on the responses so far.

[TurboRay]

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Did the vehicle start/run B4 you pulled the dist for the TFI replacement? The f/pump gets its’ power from the f/pump relay, whose coil is (1) powered by switched batt power [ign sw], and (2) grounded by the EEC. When the ign sw is first turned “on”, the EEC signals the pump to run for about 1 second, then shuts it off. 

But, when the dist is turning (cranking or running) a PIP signal is generated, thus telling the EEC to turn on the f/pump (and keep it going). Sooooo.....the pump should be heard running for a second when the switch is turned on. Otherwise, the injector rail won’t be pressurized and the motor won’t start.

Put yer ear against the rear fender and have someone turn on the ignition.....you should hear the pump fire off and run for about a second. If that’s not the case, you need to diagnose the f/pump circuit to determine why the pump is not being powered &/or replace the faulty pump.

[invisibomb]

.
Did the vehicle start/run B4 you pulled the dist for the TFI replacement? The f/pump gets its’ power from the f/pump relay, whose coil is (1) powered by switched batt power [ign sw], and (2) grounded by the EEC. When the ign sw is first turned “on”, the EEC signals the pump to run for about 1 second, then shuts it off. 

But, when the dist is turning (cranking or running) a PIP signal is generated, thus telling the EEC to turn on the f/pump (and keep it going). Sooooo.....the pump should be heard running for a second when the switch is turned on. Otherwise, the injector rail won’t be pressurized and the motor won’t start.

Put yer ear against the rear fender and have someone turn on the ignition.....you should hear the pump fire off and run for about a second. If that’s not the case, you need to diagnose the f/pump circuit to determine why the pump is not being powered &/or replace the faulty pump.

It did start and run before i pulled the distro. Ive tried another relay in the fuel pump position on the fuse panel. When i connect pts 30 and 87 i do hear the pumps prime the system (its pretty loud on my car.).  I do not hear this when i connect the battery to the car and turn the ignition on. 
This is what makes me curious about the photo i included with the TFI connector. Is what i have in the photo normal looking?
Is there a way to know if my ECU is actually powering up and working? My car runs an LA2, but ive tried an LA3 and another EEC relay as well. Neither had any effect.

[TurboRay]

It did start and run before i pulled the distro. When i connect pts 30 and 87 i do hear the pumps prime the system (its pretty loud on my car.).  I do not hear this when i connect the battery to the car and turn the ignition on. 

This is what makes me curious about the photo i included with the TFI connector. Is what i have in the photo normal looking? 

Is there a way to know if my ECU is actually powering up and working? 

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Did you try starting the engine while the f/pump was running with the relay jumpered/bypassed? If the ECU is powered and working properly, it shoulda started (since it was running B4). Soooo.....I would see if that’s the case B4 proceeding with other diagnosis’. As for the wiring at the TFI connector that you posted.....YES, it does look “modified”, as tho someone in the past replaced the two “end wires” in the harness.

BUT......that wiring hasn’t changed since the engine was running ~ RIGHT? Soooo......unless you stretched out the connector and damaged the wiring inside the “taping”, I don’t see how it could be the source of yer prob. Besides, other than generating a PIP signal to KEEP the f/pump operating while running/cranking.....I’m pretty sure the dist has nothing to do with the previously-mentioned 1-sec “priming” that should occur when turning on the ignition.

I suggest going HERE to see if there are any wiring schematics that relate to your Merk or LA-series computer ~ so you can trace your f/pump circuit to find out why it’s not powering the pump. You could also see if the relay’s “trigger pin” is being grounded by the EEC when the key is turned on OR if the relay’s coil is being powered with the key on.

In the long run, I think you’re gonna find something simple, like a bad EEC power relay or a defective ign switch (which seems to be a common prob with Merks)......and little or nothing related to the TFI replacement. BUT ~ I wuz wrong once B4!

[invisibomb]

It did start and run before i pulled the distro. When i connect pts 30 and 87 i do hear the pumps prime the system (its pretty loud on my car.).  I do not hear this when i connect the battery to the car and turn the ignition on. 

This is what makes me curious about the photo i included with the TFI connector. Is what i have in the photo normal looking? 

Is there a way to know if my ECU is actually powering up and working? 

Did you try starting the engine while the f/pump was running with the relay jumpered/bypassed? If the ECU is powered and working properly, it shoulda started (since it was running B4). Soooo.....I would see if that’s the case B4 proceeding with other diagnosis’. As for the wiring at the TFI connector that you posted.....YES, it does look “modified”, as tho someone in the past replaced the two “end wires” in the harness.

BUT......that wiring hasn’t changed since the engine was running ~ RIGHT? Soooo......unless you stretched out the connector and damaged the wiring inside the “taping”, I don’t see how it could be the source of yer prob. Besides, other than generating a PIP signal to KEEP the f/pump operating while running/cranking.....I’m pretty sure the dist has nothing to do with the previously-mentioned 1-sec “priming” that should occur when turning on the ignition.

I suggest going HERE to see if there are any wiring schematics that relate to your Merk or LA-series computer ~ so you can trace your f/pump circuit to find out why it’s not powering the pump. You could also see if the relay’s “trigger pin” is being grounded by the EEC when the ke y is turned on OR if the relay’s coil is being powered with the key on.

In the long run, I think you’re gonna find something simple, like a bad EEC power relay or a defective ign switch (which seems to be a common prob with Merks)......and little or nothing related to the TFI replacement. BUT ~ I wuz wrong once B4!

 Thanks so much for the help. This has been a frustrating experience.
I actually did try to start it while bypassing the fuel pump relay, but no go and i didnt smell any gas or get any misfires.
I didnt think to test the ground coming from the eec to the fuel pump relay. I'll be sure to try that tonight.
I thnk ill also investigate those two wires a little more. I was looking at a page that showed that the two wires that are altered are for the ignition ground and the other is for the starter circuit.

[23reasons]

Your tIming is off now, or your harNess is shorting/ deteriorated. 

Merkurs are known for terrible wiring, it will literally  crumble in your hands