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Noise from timing belt tensioner? 88 2.3L Turbo
#1

   

Hey guys, so my little rocket is running good but when the car is hot at idle there is a fairly loud and severely annoying noise I think may be coming from the tensioner for the main belt. When I bring the revs up, it goes away. I've recorded it. To confirm it wasn't the alternator or water pump, I pulled the serpentine belt off them and the noise was still present.

Any ideas? 

Here's the video :

https://youtu.be/4VBVwo5rN_w
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#2

Can't quite make out the noise... is it more of a whirling/whining sound? I found that over tightening the timing belt was causing my noise issue. When installing the belt I found giving the tensioner a little extra nudge while tightening it down was the culprit. Just letting the spring on the tensioner take up the slack and tightening the adjusting bolt without any added assistance resolved the whining/whirling noise for me.
1987 TC, 5sp, BoPort Stage 3 Head, 2.1 Cam
1996 Impala SS
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#3

Yea, its that medium high pitch noise that sounds like something is resonating or rubbing. The pully was adjusted several times but it didn't make much difference.

I suppose the question is can the tensioners start making noise? It seemed to roll smoothly when it was off. Frustrating because it's quite loud at stoplights and pretty annoying.
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#4

(07-02-2020, 03:15 AM)Tbone1209 Wrote:  I suppose the question is can the tensioners start making noise? It seemed to roll smoothly when it was off. Frustrating because it's quite loud at stoplights and pretty annoying.

Since it is a bearing it is possible that it could be failing... A whole component kit with belt and tensioner is pretty much the same price as the tensioner alone ($23 on rockauto for a Dayco or Gates kit) so I would try just replacing the tensioner and see if that helps, you can swap the belt too if no change.

Try listening through a couple foot length of heater hose to the tensioner and aux shaft area as well as any other suspected locations.     

Check the inner timing cover too and make sure its not loose, rubbing or broken.
1987 TC, 5sp, BoPort Stage 3 Head, 2.1 Cam
1996 Impala SS
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#5

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Like any other bearing, they fail sooner or later ~ BUT........make sure that the t/belt and all sprockets are of the same configuration (square tooth or round tooth). If you DO wind up replacing the tensioner, make "witness" marks between the individual belt and sprocket teeth (6 marks total) with "Whiteout", to insure proper belt orientation upon reassembly. . [Image: confused0024.gif]
Placerville, California
(former)  2.3T '78 Courier ~ (current)  2.3T '87 Ranger & '82 Mazda B2200 (smog-exempt diseasel truck)
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#6

(07-02-2020, 05:44 PM)TurboRay Wrote:  .
Like any other bearing, they fail sooner or later ~ BUT........make sure that the t/belt and all sprockets are of the same configuration (square tooth or round tooth). If you DO wind up replacing the tensioner, make "witness" marks between the individual belt and sprocket teeth (6 marks total) with "Whiteout", to insure proper belt orientation upon reassembly. . [Image: confused0024.gif]

Yes, frankly that's the only thing holding me back from just replacing it is the chance that I may get the cam timing off. I'll get a white pen and make sure things stay in line. Any "special" method to removing or installing to make sure things stay in sync?
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#7

Rotate the engine until the cam indicator/sprocket is aligned... that will be at TDC and the crank pulley will be pointing at 0 degrees although it looks like you don't have an outer cover so not sure if you have any timing marks to reference.  Remove the distributor cap and note where the rotor is pointing as that will be the pulley that moves easily when belt tension is released. 

Once you remove and replace the tensioner, tighten the pivot bolt and adjustment bolt with the tension off the belt so you can verify the orientation.  Keep the the slack off the belt running the long way from the crank to cam sprocket, making sure that the cam and crank are in the proper orientation, verify the rotor is pointing correctly and loosen the tensioner pivot bolt and then slowly release the adjustment bolt until the spring applies the tension.  Tighten down both the pivot and adjustment tensioner bolts and rotate the engine manually a couple of turns to verify alignment hasn't changed.

Once done you should check the ignition timing as chances are it will be off some.
1987 TC, 5sp, BoPort Stage 3 Head, 2.1 Cam
1996 Impala SS
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#8

We sell this nice tensioner upgrade BTW: https://www.stinger-performance.com/stor...m-ford-2.3
|STINGER PERFORMANCE| 2.3T Parts, Swap & Tech Articles |FAQ| -FORUM-|
|->PiMPxs & PiMPx ECU\'s<-| SVOx3, Turbo 06 GT
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#9

Thanks! Just trying to determine if the tensioner is faulty so going with the Gates one for now. I'll keep it in mind though
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#10

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I've never seen/heard a bearing make a "whine" noise, TB......only a "rumble". If the belt and all sprockets are compatible with each other (square .tooth or round .tooth), I would try loosening the belt tension slightly to see if the whine goes away ~ because I HAVE .heard excessively-tight t/belts whine on various makes/models of engines.

OTOH ~ If the bearing in the tensioner is actually bad (rumbling), you should be able to detect/isolate it by placing a long screwdriver between its' backing plate and yer ear.  .[Image: confused0024.gif]
Placerville, California
(former)  2.3T '78 Courier ~ (current)  2.3T '87 Ranger & '82 Mazda B2200 (smog-exempt diseasel truck)
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