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pilot bearing install...
#1

I am putting in a new clutch in the 88TC and have a pilot bearing question for you. I have a Chiltons for the car and in there they mention that the pilot bearing gets installed with the "seal" side towards the transmission, my new roller pilot bearing does not look like it has a seal. Was this a ford only part that had one, or is the seal so small I cannot see it with the grease that is smeared on it? Also, what depth should the bearing be installed from the flat of the crank? Should it be bottomed out all the way in? Or just a little past the bevel? Manual doesn't specify. Thanks
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#2

All the needle pilot bearings that I've seen do indeed have a seal incorporated into the sheetmetal "cage" on one end. They're very thin/narrow and - if you're not familiar with 'em - you might not even recognize 'em as "seals".   <shrug> They're designed to keep clutch dust and other contaminants outta the permanently lubed needles. If yours doesn't have one.....I suggest getting one that does.
Placerville, California
(former)  '78 2.3T Courier w/blow-thru Autolite 2bbl carb ~ (current)  '87 2.3T Ranger w/PiMP’d EFI
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#3

Thanks Ray, I did look at it closer and it does have an o ring in it, and I will l install it facing the transmission. How far does it need to be installed, all the way to bottom it out, or just past the crank bevel leaving a gap behind it? Last time I did a pilot bushing in a car it was the old type oiled bronze ones in my Galaxie, which gets bottomed out.
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#4

(07-20-2021, 12:19 AM)Kuch Wrote:  How far does it need to be installed?

......the old type oiled bronze ones in my Galaxie....gets bottomed out.

WHAT? You didn't pay attention to the depth of the one you took out??? LOL......I don't know, probably about midway between bottomed and flush with the leading edge of the hole.

BTW......I've installed plenty of those full-diameter bronze/Oilite bushings in the old FE motors, but there's a newer replacement that's basically a same-size bushing, but with a needle bearing pressed into the center.  <thumbup>
Placerville, California
(former)  '78 2.3T Courier w/blow-thru Autolite 2bbl carb ~ (current)  '87 2.3T Ranger w/PiMP’d EFI
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#5

Thanks Ray. Good to know about the FE replacement, but I don't expect to be doing the clutch in my 390 4 speed car any time soon. Those Toploaders are heavy. Love those FE's!
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#6

I'll be doing this in the next couple of days, as soon as the parts store gets the bearing in.

Trans was being noisy and I had a spare so I was just going to swap them. Them I saw the pilot bearing so I pulled the clutch. Then I saw the turbo oil drain line was leaking. Then I noticed the turbo brace was missing... Fortunately I have a hoist and a transmission jack so none of the jobs are too bad (if I can get the turbo to manifold nuts loose for the brace).

steve
83 & 84 GT turbo, 84, 85.5 & 86 SVOs
87 & 88 TurboCoupe
93 5.0 notch, 95 GT coupe & vert, 96 GT vert  (Yes, I have a probem, garage's too small!)
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#7

Most crankshaft pilot holes have a slight chamfer. I install the bearing until it is flush with the inside edge of the chamfer. That way the bearing is supported 100%
1986 SVO daily driver. PiMP v1.4/3" Stinger exhaust/FMIC/Schlodes Manifolds/Boport 2.1 and head/GM 3700 stall 200-4R auto trans
1963 2.3T Ranchero Project
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#8

The new pilot bearing came in and it's significantly shorter than the one I took out. So much for supplier quality.
83 & 84 GT turbo, 84, 85.5 & 86 SVOs
87 & 88 TurboCoupe
93 5.0 notch, 95 GT coupe & vert, 96 GT vert  (Yes, I have a probem, garage's too small!)
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