[JoshT]

I'm going to end up picking up a complete NA 2.3 to build for a turbo while driving my truck NA. When buying one I also want to get a roller cam setup which puts me at 89+ Ranger or 91+ Mustangs.

I'll be running PiMP from the start and will eventually run a coil packs, but at least starting out I'll be running a distributor TFI type ignition. Even going to coil packs I might be using Stingers CAS kit which is mounted on a distributor. This places cutoff at 1995 when they removed the distributor hole.

So I'm looking at getting a 89-94 Ranger or 91-93 Mustang 2.3L engine to build. I know blocks are the same, and essentially the same as my current one except for the main journal diameter. I'm not wondering about the block though, I'm wondering about the cylinder head. After buying the spare engine I'll have two heads available, one will be on the running NA engine and the other will be getting ported. I don't care which is being ported or if I have to swap them around to port the better of the two.

1) 1985 Ranger single plug D-port w/ heart shaped chamber
2) 89+ Ranger or 91+ Mustang dual plug

Which of these heads would be the better starting point for DIY porting? What if I sent it off to someone like BoPort? Does it make any difference after porting?

If I try to run a dual plug head with a distributor, what do I do about the extra plug holes? Obviously got to plug them but with what? Just old spark plugs?

If I farm out the porting work, is it worth having larger valves and/or hardened seats installed? If so what material would I want for valves? I keep reading about turbo heads having different valve materials.

Are the EFI intake manifolds interchangable between my 85 and the 89+ engines, or will I need to get the manifold with the head? If I will need the 89+ manifold, would I be able to transfer all of my EFI components over to it?

Sorry I don't exactly have a good selection of vehicles and engines to go compare. Hoping that someone has been around enough variety to have an answer and is willing to take the time to respond.

**I know, I've been told, buying a complete 2.3 turbo engine/donor is the way to go. Not likely to happen where I am, and I'd rather build a fresh engine anyway. Even if I managed to find a turbo engine/donor, I still be doing the same work to that engine.**

[BradM]

I'll comment on a few things you asked. Based upon my experience with aux shaft driven timing (the gears wear out), I'd look at going with EDIS. Search "edis kit 2.3" on eBay and see the stuff offered by pyropete. He will sell just the VR sensor and bracket (no need to buy the dummy distributor). The only used part you will need is the EDIS4 connector (they are on eBay too), all other parts are available new. PiMPx is setup for EDIS and Stinger provides instructions.

I run a BoPort stage 3 with the bigger valves and a stage 2.5 cam. I upgraded because my stock 2.3 Turbo Coupe head had a wallered out valve guide. If you decide to start with a non-roller head, inspect your valve guides closely and consider replacing them as BoPort says they wear quicker when you switch to a roller cam (and that's what happened to me). Does the porting and bigger valves make a difference? Oh yeah. I'm still running all stock intake and throttle body. Spend your money on the hot side first IMHO.

If you're going turbo, don't forget that you'll need forged rods and pistons.

[TurboRay]

 If you're going turbo, don't forget that you'll need forged rods and pistons.

All 74-97 2.3 Limas came with stock forged rods, Brad ~ both N/A & turbo (74-94 = 5.2047 long, and 95-97 = 5.457 long). OTOH, 98-01 2.3's & 2.5's had 5.457 powdered-metal rods. As I said in another thread (different forum) recently, the "jury" is still out on the strength of Ford's powdered-metal versions (The "Big-Bang" articles on the GM LS motors that made over 1200 turbocharged horsepower claimed stock powdered-metal rods).  <eek>

[JoshT]

Brad, no offense, but I fail to understand why I would go Ford EDIS over Stinger CAS and coil per plug. Either way going to need the distributor hole. Either way going to need a distributor or a camshaft synchronizer to drive the oil pump. Still going to face that gear wear unless you use a newer block with belt driven oil pump.

Thanks for the note on the valve guides. Still need to figure out which head to use. If it I have it done professionally it'll probably get the works. Porting, chamber work, new guides, hardened seats, new valves, etc. That said I have a difficult time swallowing the price of a BoPort level three for the power I'm likely to make. IIRC they also show a level one service on the site, but you have to send in your head. I'd still need to figure out which to use.

As Ray said I'm already going to have good rods for a turbo with the 88-94 block. That being said the only part of the rotating assembly that I currently intend to reuse is the crank. I plan to buy new rods and pistons.

I do intend to build a bottom end capable of more than I intend to reach, so maybe I should just buy a BoPort stage 3 head and be done. I'm still going to want to get a roller cam and some porting in the NA engine, but don't know if I want to or should spend that much on the NA. I may try my hand at DIY porting and buy BoPort later.

[BradM]

Hi JoshT, no offense taken (it's just an opinion forum). Stinger's CAS still relies on the distributor gear and aux shaft to give you timing, EDIS eliminates that mess and the distributor would just drive the oil pump. See my recent EDIS post about spark plug selection and see the pictures of my aux shaft. The aux shaft/distributor gear is the weak link in providing accurate and reliable timing. EDIS uses a VR sensor and tone ring, nothing wears out. If I were investing in a new ignition system, I'd move away from using the distributor.

[JoshT]

I may not have said it previously, but I intend to convert to sequential injection with PiMPxs ECU.  For that, based on what I've read, I'm still going to need a camshaft position sensor.

The aux shaft/distributor gear is the weak link in providing accurate and reliable timing. EDIS uses a VR sensor and tone ring, nothing wears out. If I were investing in a new ignition system, I'd move away from using the distributor.

Distributor accuracy has not been a limiting factor in a whole lot of high performance builds over the years. In most cases where it is an issue, the issue lies with the timing chain or belt and tensioners, not with distributor gears. I'll admit to not being very familiar with the 2.3L, but I don't see why they would be any different. I don't know what's caused your problems with distributor gear wear, but I am willing to taker a chance. I may use a factory style camshaft cynchronizer rather than Stinger's CAS, but I think one of those is a better option for me than the crank trigger kit.

At this stage I'm not concerned about ignition, I'm trying to figure out answers to what I've asked about cylinder heads and intakes.

[BradM]

Agree.

[onesillynotch]

im running ford OEM CPS and the ranger cam sync for sequential spark on ms3

you cant clear a dizzy on a dual plug head stock intake and im not sure on the CAS 36-1. You can clear a ranger cam sync tho

the limiting factor with the DP setup is spark and intake selection. I am wired for dual mopar coil packs (using a bosche ignitor) that initial were wired for sequential. @ about 25psi i had to revert back to batch fire as one coil (half a coil pack) was un able to jump 2 spark gaps under higher boost. im swapping to 8 LS coil packs over the winter and will be going back to sequential spark.

Ill have a good comparison on how much of a restriction a stock intake is vs my custom sheetmetal intake in a week or so based on turbo compressor wheel RPMS at the the boost level on both intakes for dual plug because i have to fix my intake

[TurboRay]

I had to revert back to batch fire as one coil (half a coil pack) was unable to jump 2 spark gaps under higher boost. 

.
I thought "we" discussed this a year or two ago, Matt? A properly-sequenced wasted-spark ignition cannot simultaneously fire TWO cylinders that are both on the "compression" stroke. When the 2 spark plugs in their respective "companion" cyls are fired simultaneously by one of the two windings in the coil pack......one is on the COMPRESSION stroke (requiring the greatest amount of spark energy/Joules), and the other is on the EXHAUST stroke (requiring very little spark energy = IOW, it's "wasted").

Below, is a plagiarized circuit diagram showing the "proper" plug-wiring sequence for a typical (single-plug) wasted-spark 4-cyl engine (substitute your Bosch igniter for "ECU" in the drawing). Note that one coil winding fires cyls 1 & 4  simultaneously and that the other coil winding fires 2 & 3 simultaneously. BUT ~ when the compressed air/fuel mix is spark-ignited in #1......non-combustible exh gasses are being expelled in #4. Likewise in 2 & 3.

Obviously, you would need a duplicate system for the other 4 plugs on the opposite side of your DPH ~ using the two remaining channels of the Bosch igniter triggered either by the same CKPS or another one that's 180° away. As you probably know already, cam-position sensing isn't needed for wasted spark......it's only required for sequential spark &/or injection. <thumbup>

OTOH ~ If you are (or WERE) experiencing spark blowout in spite of having the correct spark-plug sequencing ~ as below ~ I would say offhand that your Mopar coil packs are/were not up to the task. If that was the case.......you probably coulda solved the issue with Ign-4 coil packs from DIY Autotune (LINK) &/or closing yer plug gaps slightly. My 2¢....... <shrug>

[Wessk]

He had BOTH outputs of a wastespark coil in the same cylinder of the dual plug head. Meaning it was jumping two plug gaps fired BTDC compression. He was controlling this as a true coil per cylinder, which allows you to do some things you can't with waste spark, plug he would actually know when a coil failed instead of simply loosing half of the plugs in a dual plug.