[wickedsnake00]

We all know the 5-lug swap is extremely popular, but has anyone ever put on a set of SN95 spindles/hubs and drilled them out for the 4-lug pattern?

As always I've got a bunch of spare SN95 parts laying around but I'd rather keep my 4-lug wheels. Just curious if anyone has gone this route.

[Paul LeDuc]

It's not a simple mod. The two lug patterns (4 on 4.25" and 5 on 4.5") interfere so you would have to weld and redrill.
Your best bet would be to find 4-lug rotors that would fit the SN95 spindles.

I realize this is the opposite of what you want to do but it's a method to investigate for your application using available parts.
For example, the low buck 5-lug swap on a Fox using Aerostar rotors and Ranger axles. They fit with no mods and the brakes stay the same but you get the 5-lug wheel option.

[wickedsnake00]

I had looked into that originally, but with the lack of popularity of 4 lug products, I haven't been able to find any that would take any less work than welding and redrilling. That was the reason for my curiosity.

[Paul LeDuc]

I had looked into that originally, but with the lack of popularity of 4 lug products, I haven't been able to find any that would take any less work than welding and redrilling. That was the reason for my curiosity.

Ok, I've never looked into it so I wasn't sure if there was an option.
On the weld/drill method iirc you only need to weld one hole if you're careful where you layout the pattern. I drew it out in AutoCad years ago but have no idea where the file is.

[wickedsnake00]

Ok, I've never looked into it so I wasn't sure if there was an option.
On the weld/drill method iirc you only need to weld one hole if you're careful where you layout the pattern. I drew it out in AutoCad years ago but have no idea where the file is.

Most of the four lug setups are for FWD cars. Obviously I can't use the front wheel ones. Not many use a sealed bearing like the SN cars, and those that do use a much smaller shaft. I think the risk and effort of re-drilling is probably much lower than machining down the spindle and using little FWD rear bearings.

I did the trig and even with aligning one of the bolt holes between the two there's barely any overlap.

If/when I get around to it I'll have to post back with results.

[Ductape]

Have you tried contacting the manufacturer and obtaining undrilled blanks?

[TurboRay]

On the weld/drill method, IIRC you only need to weld one hole if you're careful where you layout the pattern. 

. 
Correct ~ and the only reason for having to weld is because of the different bolt circles. If each pattern had the same B/C, one of the lug holes would remain as-is and the other three could be drilled into a virgin portion of the 5-bolt rotor or axle flange......altho two would  be fairly close to each other with a center-to-center spacing just a skosh over 5/8".

OTOH, it could be done w/o welding if one were able to locate a (custom/unobtanium)  wheel stud having a .250-ish larger-diameter knurled shank AND a mill were used to bore that stud's hole off-center by 1/8-inch, lol. 

BTW......THIS looks kinda scary!!  [Image: happy0035.gif]

[Ductape]

Wil wood and others sell undrilled rotor blanks.

[TurboRay]

Wilwood and others sell un-drilled rotor blanks.

.
Please forgive my ignorance, Kent (I've never owned an SN95 Mustang) ~ BUT........aren't the rotors and hubs separate? I.e., don't the rotors simply slide over the studs of a separate hub? Is so, you'd need un-drilled rotors AND un-drilled hubs. If that's the case and Wilwood sells both in un-drilled versions.......I'll betcha that the total price for all four pieces (not to mention the cost of having 'em indexed & drilled by a machinist) would make one's wallet hurt!!  

Another point of my ignorance about SN95's was aroused when reading that their front hubs and "axles"  are made as a flanged assembly  (with sealed bearings) that bolts to the spindle, aka "knuckle" ~ as opposed to the the 4-lug spindles/knuckles having an axle that's integral with the forging. If that's true, then the only way I envision using the 4-lug Cobra wheels on an SN95 Mustang would be to mod/re-drill the hubs for 4 lugs, along with using the larger '93 Cobra 4-lug rotors. But......DUNNO!  

[Ductape]

Wilwood and others sell un-drilled rotor blanks.

.
Please forgive my ignorance, Kent (I've never owned an SN95 Mustang) ~ BUT........aren't the rotors and hubs separate? I.e., don't the rotors simply slide over the studs of a separate hub? Is so, you'd need un-drilled rotors AND un-drilled hubs. If that's the case and Wilwood sells both in un-drilled versions.......I'll betcha that the total price for all four pieces (not to mention the cost of having 'em indexed & drilled by a machinist) would make one's wallet hurt!!  

Another point of my ignorance about SN95's was aroused when reading that their front hubs and "axles"  are made as a flanged assembly  (with sealed bearings) that bolts to the spindle, aka "knuckle" ~ as opposed to the the 4-lug spindles/knuckles having an axle that's integral with the forging. If that's true, then the only way I envision using the 4-lug Cobra wheels on an SN95 Mustang would be to mod/re-drill the hubs  for 4 lugs, along with using the larger  '93 Cobra 4-lug rotors. But......DUNNO!  

      My ef-up Ray I skimmed and thought he was trying to get sn95 sized rotors for his 4 lug set-up. Too da**ed much going on.