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Serpentine belt for a non AC and Power steering setup?
#1

Any of you guys happen to know the belt number or length of a serpentine belt for a 87-88 TC serp pulley setup with no a/c and no power steering?

Also would you have to move the alternator?


This is pending a swap coming up just trying to figure out stuff ahead of time.
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#2

Did such a thing ever exist? I always thought anything less than A/C was BENEATH the almighty 87-88 pinnacle turbo coupe.

I'm guessing this must be it?

https://cdn.drivingline.com//media/artic...rue&w=1130

Edit: Actually that almost looks like a Sagginaw PS conversion with the alternator hanging off the passenger side with a heim'ed rod
88 TC in Canyon Red
Walbro 255, AEM wideband, CP Pistons, FMIC, PIMP, SVO T3, Ranger roller, 3" Stinger exhaust, AFPR, RFL BOV, Gutted upper, Ported lower
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#3

Sorry should have been more specific and also im dumb didnt realize the A/C belt is separate (I dont have the car at my house). I wont be running the a/c in this car.

The car im running that motor in will have a manual steering rack so no need for a power steering pump.
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#4

So alternator in the stock position, with the belt only touching the crank, waterpump, and alternator pulleys? Or are you using the Ranger passenger side alternator bracket?

If you can mock it all up, use a string to make a 'belt', then measure the string. Be sure you take into account the length you will lose with the tensioner acting on the belt.

Someone may chime in and know the answer, sorry this is the best I got!

Let me know what you find out, you will save me some time Big Grin
88 TC in Canyon Red
Walbro 255, AEM wideband, CP Pistons, FMIC, PIMP, SVO T3, Ranger roller, 3" Stinger exhaust, AFPR, RFL BOV, Gutted upper, Ported lower
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#5

(02-04-2020, 12:21 PM)ThunderFaux Wrote:  So alternator in the stock position, with the belt only touching the crank, waterpump, and alternator pulleys? Or are you using the Ranger passenger side alternator bracket?


Yes thats correct for now that would be the plan keeping stock location alt, water pump, crank, tensioner and thats it. If I can't find anything by then ill measure it up do some hunting around. 

Im still a bit lost as to what years 2.3 ranger bracket I would need to move the alternator over anyways and if I swap to a 130 amp alternator will it matter? Cant quite find concrete info on that one.
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#6

(02-04-2020, 12:58 PM)ianb Wrote:  If I swap to a 130 amp alternator will it matter? 

What causes the need for a 130 amp alternator, Ian? Do you have some sorta gee-whiz sheetmetal-thumping stereo? Most EFI cars & trucks w/o electric PS - even when equipped with electric fan(s) &/or A/C - seem to get by quite nicely with alternators that max out at well under 95 amps.

For example, the "small" (95-amp) 3g that came stock on many Mustangs, Taurii and several other Ford cars and trucks puts out well in excess of any current requirement you'll probably ever have. It's also readily available new thru many aftermarket suppliers, w/o the need for returning a core. [Image: confused0024.gif]
Placerville, California
(former)  2.3T '78 Courier ~ (current)  2.3T '87 Ranger & '82 Mazda B2200 (smog-exempt diseasel truck)
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#7

(02-04-2020, 06:03 PM)TurboRay Wrote:  
(02-04-2020, 12:58 PM)ianb Wrote:  If I swap to a 130 amp alternator will it matter? 

What causes the need for a 130 amp alternator, Ian? Do you have some sorta gee-whiz sheetmetal-thumping stereo? Most EFI cars & trucks w/o electric PS - even when equipped with electric fan(s) &/or A/C - seem to get by quite nicely with alternators that max out at well under 95 amps.

For example, the "small" (95-amp) 3g that came stock on many Mustangs, Taurii and several other Ford cars and trucks puts out well in excess of any current requirement you'll probably ever have. It's also readily available new  thru many aftermarket suppliers, w/o the need for returning a core. [Image: confused0024.gif]


I meant to say 95 AMP upgrade, its been a few years since I even thought about 2.3Ts lol. And there is a possibility of getting a little thump in the trunk later on...nothing thats going to rattle sheet metal though lol.
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#8

This is the exact set up i'm running on my ranger. I`m using the factory 1988 ranger 2.0 (probly the same as 2.3) alternator brackets. 100 amp 3g alternator bolted right in and  using turbocoupe water pump and crank pulleys. I don`t know my belt length off the top of my head but I`ll look this weekend. The rangers tucked away in storage until spring.
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#9

(02-05-2020, 10:00 PM)svoperformance Wrote:  This is the exact set up i'm running on my ranger. I`m using the factory 1988 ranger 2.0 (probly the same as 2.3) alternator brackets. 100 amp 3g alternator bolted right in and  using turbocoupe water pump and crank pulleys. I don`t know my belt length off the top of my head but I`ll look this weekend. The rangers tucked away in storage until spring.

Yeah that would be cool if you can. Does the 88 ranger alt brackets move the alternator to the other side?
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#10

The 88 ranger set up keeps the alternator in the standard position on the drivers side of the engine. Its a bracket on the head that the alternator swivels on and a bracket on the block that is slotted for your belt adjustment. Its compact, simple and works surprisingly well. But I think what your looking for is the early 90`s alternator bracket that moves the alternator to the passenger side and has a belt tensioner bolted to it. I think its kinda bulky and your putting the alternator wiring closer to the hot manifold but you can make it work. My buddy had a turbo ranger set up like this but his manifold was flipped so not sure how a e6 or tube manifold will fit.
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