[CruzNlife1]

Sorry for the lenghthyness please read it all....

Okay, I fixed some air leaks today and it was running like a champ..... Set the gillis to 19 pounds and went for a drive..... Got on it when it got warmed up but quickly noticed I was over boosting to like 24+ Pounds so I immediatly let off, I was followed by a HUGE unbeleiveably thick cloud of smoke.... The seafoam treatment or ATF in your intake type smoke.... ONLY AT IDLE>.... Smoke is DEFINITLY oil, it's blue, definitly not steam.... It will run PERFECTLY clean than when you let off and stop it will smoke like a beast.... The downpipe and elbow are full of oil when I loosened the downpipe, some even dripped out a little bit..... Than I was on my way home, and I lowered the gillis and was maintaing a healthy 15 pounds of boost.... I jumped on it and heard a LOUD BANG, sounded just like a coupler popping off, pulled over and it was all good..... even double checked the tightness of the clamps..... Checked oil etc... Still full.... Checked coolant, still full and green.... Got back in it, now for some unrelated reason it's not charging.... so I drove it about 15 miles home.... let it cool, than pulled off the radiator cap, still full and green, let it run and get nice and hot.... Theres no bubbles in the radiator etc.... And the oil is still clean but a little low this time so I topped it off.... I'm not sure what to think here, it's actually running good I just dont know what that LOUD bang was..... And it runs clean etc, it even idles good, it just smokes BAD.... I think I'm going to pull the plugs tomorrow and see if they have oil on them.... If something went wrong in the turbo the plugs should still be clean right ?? I pulled off the oil cap, and revved, theres no pressure or anything coming out of the oil openings so I'm pretty sure nothing piston related happened.... I'm still pushing out 30-35+ pounds of oil pressure and pulling 19" of vac. at about 850 rpms, and it idles good, just smokes.... Any ideas ??

[msm]

Turbo seal on the EXH side. Pull the turbo off and see if there is any oil in the EXH manifold, if none then the turbo needs rebuilding.

My pinto smokes only at idle although nothing like you are describing, and it is the turbo.

Mark

[StrangerTurboRanger]

Sounds like the turbo seal. When it gets worse you will pressurize the crankcase when on boost.

[CruzNlife1]

yeah, I pulled all 4 plugs tonight, they're all clean and the tips are tan.... I also found out why it's not charging, somehow the plug came "fell out" the back of my alternator, dont know how it happened but it was a strang coincidence.... Plugged it back in, had to jump start it and it was charging fine, let it run for a minute and fogged out the neighborhood.... Like if I took a pic of the truck at idle tomorrrow morning, you wouldnt beleive it.... It was doing this at random, like once in a while it would puff some smoke at idle but would stop, this started and is out of control.... I REALLY wanna know what that REALLY loud bang was..... I did notice one of my couplers was starting to pull off the intercooler and I fixed it, maybe that was my big bang....

This is something that HAS to be fixed asap, it's embarassing to say the least, I shut it off and roll to a stop at red lights etc....

Is rebuilding the turbo something I can do myself ?? And anyone know where to buy parts ?? I will start searching now I guess....

[msm]

You can find rebuild kits on Evil bay for 40 to 70 bucks or at most turbo shops for 90. for the mechanically inclined its a piece of cake, just be sure to mark the compressor wheel to turbine shaft orientation BEFORE you disassemble the compressor wheel to insure proper balance of the rotating assy.

Or you can go for the upgrade and buy a new turbo with better performance specs.

It's only a little hard the first time.

Mark

[CruzNlife1]

The parts are individually balanced and than checked as an assembly, it shouldnt matter how it goes together.... Anyways, I build the motor and the truck, I'm more than capable of doing this.... I've got a T3/T4 here with a bad centersection and shaft I may just use the compressor off of that.... The turbo was rebuild not TOO long ago, I'm actually using a mercedes turbo from a 5 cylinder diesel car, been working wonderfully, anyways I think I may just replace the oil control ring in the back... There is near ZERO shaft play, spins free, no movement anywhere....

[Xchief1320]

Be CAREFUL when you loosen and tighten up the nut on the turbo shaft.A little trick a local turbo guy told me if you didn't have the jig to hold it while you loosen and tighten the nut is to use TWO 1/4" universals and then a T-HANDLE instead of a regular ratchet and socket or wrench.That way you can't side load the shaft and bend it..even a slight amount will cause issues.You will know right away cause it will make a whirling noise.

So it will be the socket that fits the nut,TWO 1/4" universals one after another then the T-handle.if that made sense..I have done it this way with no trouble.he also said to snug it up with the T-handle with locktite on the nut.And not to try and tighten it too much.it only takes like 12 ft lbs..

Oh yeah my turbo on my ranger did the same thing.it ended up being the oil seal broke and allowing it to let oil go straight out the rear fo the turbo and into the exhaust..Mine would pump oil out if you pulled the O2 out.

Steve

[CruzNlife1]

Anyone know where I can buy just the oil control stuff ?? also anyone know if I can change the oil control rings without taking out the shaft of taking off the comressor wheel.... This thing is still in great shape, I dont want to rebuild it yet, and I'm a cheap bastard

[Xchief1320]

the exhaust wheel and shaft has to come out of the cartridge to fix it,which means the compressor wheel has to come off.. Try e-bay and a guy names turbopimp.he sells parts..

Steve

[Schredder]

Steve,

What do you mean by 1/4" universals? Universals what?

Thanks,