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Should probably start one
#1

1977 honda civic, previous life was an ice racer with a 440 mopar and 727.  New chassis, different engine 
 2.3, volvo head, gt3782va turbo, powerglide trans, mustang II front 9" back.  
try to post some pic this weeks
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#2

building new chassis on table
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1eu_XmrM...sp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1QIXI4-n...sp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/18oAzcwO...sp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1JvwEeUS...sp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1QK7l0_h...sp=sharing
custom in house narrowed mustang II rack -5"
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1K5yrx7c...sp=sharing

mocking engine in chassis on table
https://drive.google.com/file/d/19kv5hmN...sp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Swjln6y...sp=sharing

rolling chassis again 
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1FJcT4JO...sp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1x-LxgF6...sp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1YvpS6zJ...sp=sharing

setting body on chassis to build cage
https://drive.google.com/file/d/10o3XW5_...sp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1QbaFA0g...sp=sharing

interior shots of cage
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ViCCCjZ...sp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1H3FtlFD...sp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1mIiP2j0...sp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/16puenHF...sp=sharing

mounting body to chassis
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1zIUHT1n...sp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1gdeNHa4...sp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1_03rzyP...sp=sharing

engine back in
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1F5mhTl0...sp=sharing

powerglide bolted on
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1WdyIUO-...sp=sharing

beginning  of intake manifold
https://drive.google.com/file/d/15uGZNC8...sp=sharing

radiator, water inter cooler and trans cooler mounted 
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1nqP3JeK...sp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Jvp90x2...sp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1kmYlRVc...sp=sharing

for fun shots
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1P9AddmF...sp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/13QmIGxn...sp=sharing

I have got the front clip mounted as well, no pics yet. I have a 3.5" fender to door gap to fill due to wheel base stretch to meet minimum 90" wb nhra rule
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#3

All I got to say is WOW !
87 TC 5 speed at 203000 miles, BoPort Stage 3 Head, 2.1 cam, 50 trim Turbo, Stinger Pimp, 3" exhaust, upper and lower ported manifolds, FMIC, 66lb injectors, 255 pump, 20 psi at 4K, 25 psi at 4.5k. Temp is 93c and IAT is 50c. Great freeway flyer on pump 93 gas.
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#4

What's that a 40" wheel base? I see the eye bolts on the shell...how much did the empty shell weigh? What's the car weigh all together?
Building (notso) cheap turbo Lima power!  450 HP or bust!
Cordova,TN
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#5

(08-04-2020, 10:57 PM)drew85gt Wrote:  What's that a 40" wheel base?  I see the eye bolts on the shell...how much did the empty shell weigh?  What's the car weigh all together
Not sure what you mean by 40" wheel base?  originally when new, this car was a 88.9 " wheelbase but due to larger wheels it shrank some. when I got the car with the big block mopar it was 87" avg. as it was longer on one side to compensate for the wet noodle of a frame it had. 
the eyebolts are removable and only there to remove/install the body, I recessed them in the gutter roof/side panel seam

goal weight is 1800 wet.

with a big block 727 trans, mustang II unibody front clip and a SCH 40 pipe (soooo soft and sketchy) frame the car was 1475 wet!. 

my chassis is far more substantial than what I bought it with.  but with losing some mass in the engine and trans it may come out lighter than I am expecting.
The shell best guess is around 350 , still has glass.  windshield needs to be replaced with lexan, because 70's civic glass is made of unobtanium like most parts for the body.
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#6

(08-04-2020, 11:21 PM)jake8778 Wrote:  
(08-04-2020, 10:57 PM)drew85gt Wrote:  What's that a 40" wheel base?  I see the eye bolts on the shell...how much did the empty shell weigh?  What's the car weigh all together
Not sure what you mean by 40" wheel base?  originally when new, this car was a 88.9 " wheelbase but due to larger wheels it shrank some. when I got the car with the big block mopar it was 87" avg. as it was longer on one side to compensate for the wet noodle of a frame it had. 
the eyebolts are removable and only there to remove/install the body, I recessed them in the gutter roof/side panel seam

goal weight is 1800 wet.

with a big block 727 trans, mustang II unibody front clip and a SCH 40 pipe (soooo soft and sketchy) frame the car was 1475 wet!. 

my chassis is far more substantial than what I bought it with.  but with losing some mass in the engine and trans it may come out lighter than I am expecting.
The shell best guess is around 350 , still has glass.  windshield needs to be replaced with lexan, because 70's civic glass is made of unobtanium like most parts for the body.

40 was a joke. It looks like the back tires are almost rubbing the fronts! That's gonna be a fun ride!
Building (notso) cheap turbo Lima power!  450 HP or bust!
Cordova,TN
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#7

.
VERY .impressive, Jake! It's probably an optical illusion, BUT......it appears that there's only an inch or two of clearance between the L/R tire tread and the horizontal tube behind the driver's lower back. If so, there may not be enough room for the tire growth that will occur during an aggressive burnout or at the end of a, say, 145-ish mph run! . [Image: confused0016.gif]
Placerville, California
(former)  2.3T '78 Courier ~ (current)  2.3T '87 Ranger & '82 Mazda B2200 (smog-exempt diseasel truck)
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#8

A small tire is the biggest that will fit unfortunately. there will be about 5" of clearance between the cage and tire. it's about 3.5" right now but I need new rear links and I am making them a little longer. running drag radials, I could be wrong but I don't think they grow as much as a true slick. the extra tube is for peace of mind (tire blow out) and little extra rigidity .
everything about this build is origami. packaging with maintenance in mind is the hardest part. New this car sat 4 people somehow and weighted about 1400 lbs, traveled at the speed of smell. I will be happy if I can get a passenger seat in.

thanks for the complements
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#9

.
(1) Yeah.......I figured the 1-2" clearance figure was just an optical illusion!
(2) Wrinkle-wall drag slicks will definitely grow a lot more than a drag radial ~ so, your anticipated 5" clearance with the longer 4-link bars should be more than adequate.

BTW ~ I probably don't need to tell ya', BUT.......since you're running 4-link suspension out back (as opposed to ladder bars), be sure to install some kinda anti-roll bar (example below) to prevent tagging the guard rail and to keep the shiny side up. . [Image: happy0034.gif]

[Image: TZM-ARB-U-2.jpg]
Placerville, California
(former)  2.3T '78 Courier ~ (current)  2.3T '87 Ranger & '82 Mazda B2200 (smog-exempt diseasel truck)
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#10

(08-05-2020, 09:25 PM)TurboRay Wrote:  .
(1) Yeah.......I figured the 1-2" clearance figure was just an optical illusion!
(2) Wrinkle-wall drag slicks will definitely grow a lot more than a drag radial ~ so, your anticipated 5" clearance with the longer 4-link bars should be more than adequate.

BTW ~ I probably don't need to tell ya', BUT.......since you're running 4-link suspension out back (as opposed to ladder bars), be sure to install some kinda anti-roll bar (example below) to prevent tagging the guard rail and to keep the shiny side up. . [Image: happy0034.gif]


that"s the other half of the reason the car was originally set up 1" longer on one side in the rear links. thanks for reminding me Ray of yet another potato I have to fit in this 20 lb sack (lol) 

I know I need it, gotta figure out where to put it and what diam bar I am going to need. been concentrating on the parts that make it roll, stop, steer, and move. haven't found a spot I like for fuel cell yet either. 
I should mention the volvo head is just tossed on with a few bolts so I had something to work around. 

A few shots from the day I brought it home. drove it once my knees were in my stomach. 
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1bSqrGm1TWUPIgxg50_typbZ_mC0uxZUW/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1tXX6d6WsCEta16EZk47TsuH86ZYNzIfe/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1k8MovCqBcnBWDkcDQhDPkpLWnYDInH7v/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1RJoPDSDSCjYI5S1nDKLqNv739K6X11tg/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1tXX6d6W...sp=sharing



you also may notice one front wheel hanging out the fender and the other flush, nothing was square on this car, also had a heavier front spring on right to compensate for big block torque. car never did hook if it did would have been a 9 sec all day.  engine was to low to get weight transfer, rear links were not set up for anti squat and couldn;t be because of the ride height of the chassis the car was built at.  rear shocks were from a motorcycle. 
I give him credit for building it on a such a tight budget but it was not safe as is. I bought it to have a first gen civic, they are like hens teeth in rust belt. 

not an optical illusion the carb is behind the windshield!
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1CVH2K2U...sp=sharing
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