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Spark Plug Cable replacement?

Hello everyone!

First of all, I just wanted to say, thanks so much for all the feedback over these past few months! I'm happy to say that I have as of today, successfully replaced my head gasket and the car is running! Big Grin You're all truly wonderful <3

I do have a question, however!

I noticed that my spark plug cables are looking pretty worn out, and I'm thinking of replacing them. Are cars like this picky when it comes to that? Do I need specific spark plug cables?

Please let me know. 

Thanks again Smile

Motorcraft wires, copper plugs are best case on a stock type engine.
Say less than 300-350hp or so.

(12-16-2020, 02:18 PM)nukesploder Wrote:  Do I need specific spark plug cables? 
Spark-plug wires are important.....especially on turbocharged applications where the voltage requirement rises commensurate with higher cylinder pressures resulting from boost. Unfortunately, most aftermarket (and some OEM) plug wires are made "over THERE"!  Sooo.....I suggest paying extra for "Magnecore" plug wires. They'll be the last ones you ever have to purchase! <thumbup>
Placerville, California
(former)  '78 2.3T Courier w/blow-thru Autolite 2bbl carb ~ (current)  '87 2.3T Ranger w/PiMP’d EFI

I've been using BWD #69411 plug wire set. It's for a V8 but has ceramic boots, very nice. O'riely Auto ordered them for me. 8.5 mm silicone with mag core. Never had an issue with them. About $75 a set. I used ceramic boots due to a flipped exhaust manifold.
86 Ranger 2.3EFI DD got 86 xr4ti transplant, home port head, RR cam, rotated upper, flipped E6 exhaust, 040 SRP Pistons, T3, intercooler, AT

You can still get OEM Motorcraft wires on rock auto, I believe. Also, while standard copper plugs do work fine, I have been pleased with NGK V-Power plugs, for stock or near stock motors. part number *used to be* TR5, but the last time I bought a set was in 2010, when I bought them for my bird, that has sat in my barn since '12. I think the advantage for the V-Power plugs comes from the shape of the spark, as it tends to be broader, and give a wider flame front. "Seat of the pants" dyno for sure, but I noticed a difference.

Also, pull your cap and rotor and clean them. No need to replace them unless the tips are worn way down, but cleaning the arc transfer gunk off of them is worth doing.

1987 TC - Goldie - Gone but not forgotten
1988 TC - Blue/Blue 5MT Check-off car, trying to save...
Sold the Coupe (hated it), Crushed the 85.5 (rust).

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