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vibration turning.
#1

Always seem to get the strangest issues.  After my final runs in the autocross, my Mustang started making noise and vibrate turning  right. made figure 8s and only did it on right turns. once while straight. Clutch in/out made no difference. Built up some speed to drift in turns and shut engine off - no vibration.  Got home and of course could not duplicate problem in the garage or driveway. next day feel vibration at start up but quickly went away. Drove 1 mile to church lot to make figure 8's and no noise/vibration. Brother thinks it might be steering rack  experience "morning sickness" a know gm issue on some vehicles. following day thought try removing belts - start car and no vibration - put belts back on and guess what - no vibration grrrr!
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#2

There are lots of mechanical probs (worn tie-rod ends or ball joints, air in hydraulic system, etc.) that could cause your issue, Joe ~ BUT.....those resulting from things like these wouldn't be "selective" only to R/H turns ~ they'd cause the prob when turning in EITHER direction.

Therefore, my "remote diagnosis" <grin> is a worn/wavy bore in the R&P housing on whichever end the piston is operating during R/H turns. SOMETIMES it can be helped with aftermarket friction additives that "condition" the PS steering fluid to better deal with the rough surface(s) in the bore.

Ask your brother if GM makes a PS additive to deal with the issue that he discussed (the friction modifier that Ford used in their Equa-Lock/Positraction differential units comes to mind). Otherwise, you might try one of the many brands of PS additives on the shelves of A/P stores (Lucas, etc.). Personally, I would avoid any that are formulated to fix leaks.......since they usually contain a "seal softener" that might exacerbate your prob.

Ultimately, however, you're probably gonna have to replace the R&P with a rebuilt unit. I wuz wrong once B4, BUT......IIRC, the OEM units are made with a hard-anodized bore designed to withstand the continual back and forth movement of the seals. But, it eventually wears away in high-use areas. I've heard that some of the better aftermarket rebuilders actually sleeve the worn bores with a thin-wall chromed tube to restore the surface. OTOH, I wouldn't be surprised if most rebuilt units simply bore oversize and install bigger seals. Anything to make a sale and get past the warranty period. GOOD LUCK!
Placerville, California
(former)  '78 2.3T Courier w/blow-thru Autolite 2bbl carb ~ (current)  '87 2.3T Ranger w/PiMP’d EFI
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#3

We can't really diagnose a problem if you're unable reproduce it. "Noise and vibration" is also rather vague.
'72 Pinto Runabout-2.3T/T5/MS-II.
I'll show those guys who's in top place, I'll really give'em a hotrod race.
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