[DangerousRangerous]

Hey all! I’ve spent the last few weeks lurking through the forum and learning quite a lot. That “proven combinations” post is money!

My question is more experiential than technical. I see the combos, mods, dyno sheets, and build threads. People going bigger/better/faster. But I’m more interested in what version of your car/truck was your favorite.

I’ve had projects in the past where eventually the bigger/better/faster approach made things less fun, less drivable, and more expensive. I look back and each of those projects, in hindsight, had a sweet spot where I wish I would have stopped and just enjoyed the car instead of chasing more. 

What’s been your experience with this when it comes to 2.3ts? What’s been the “sweet spot” for your projects?

For reference: I just picked up a 97 2.3 manual Ranger that I’m quickly falling in love with lol. I have an idea where I want to go with it, but any suggestions in regards to mods/fun/$/drivability/reliability(ish) are very welcome.

[TurboRay]

I just picked up a 97 2.3 manual Ranger..........any suggestions in regards to mods/fun/$/drivability/reliability(ish) are very welcome.

WELCOME .to TurboFord, DR......what's your name? 

I ASSume that you want more POWA? Any mods that might be suggested are somewhat contingent upon your goals. If you're willing to "settle" for 10-25% more power, you could spend, say, 700-ish bux and install a header, bigger exhaust and mild N/A camshaft. OTOH, you could probably get 50% more power with a cast E6 Ford turbo manifold, a "Churbo" (Chinese turbo), bigger injectors, and a remote tune of your ECU for about the same price or slightly more......as long as you don't get greedy and keep the boost level low (7-ish psi, whereas more COULD = "boom"). You'd need to lose your A/C or modify your heater-blower plenum to make room for the turbo with an E6 manifold.

If you wanna double your power with 15-20psi boost ~ you'll need, forged pistons, a T3/T4 turbo, bigger injectors, bigger fuel pump, aftermarket ECU (PiMP, 'Squirt, etc.), 3-in exhaust, front intercooler, Boport (or similar) turbo camshaft and POSSIBLY some head work or a different head & intake. You might also need to use octane additive, race gas, or E85. In the "extreme" category, some folks have made over 600hp with big turbos, a ported single or dual-plug head, and a lot of boost (30+ psi). Over 1000hp has been made with an Essy aluminum head, in some cases, an Essy aluminum "Midget" block ~ but longevity and reliability diminish greatly at anything over, say, 300-400-ish hp. <shrug>

TF software won't let me post a FB link, sooo........make an URL outta the following "segmented URL", paste it into your browser, and read it = https:/ ......  /www  ......  .facebook......    .com/groups/483434015101810/permalink/6512046645573820/

[DangerousRangerous]

Appreciate the response TurboRay!

After browsing the forums and different FB groups, I think 300-350whp, running mid 12s with a mediocre driver (me), and maintaining some reliable drivability on pump gas, seems realistic. I’m open to input though. If that level of power on a 2.3t is outside the realm of  my expectations, my goals can adjust. I’m not trying to set a record or run with Teslas lol.

From what I can tell, the main factors for me will be how much money I need/want to spend on the head, and how much turbo lag I can live with. (Pistons, rods, fuel, tuning, are all fixed costs in my mind).

[TurboRay]

.
350hp and mid/low 12's is easy and comparably cheaper with a V-ate (LS, SBC, SBF, etc.) ~ BUT.....it's a lofty goal for a 4-cyl engine with only 140cid. That's well over 2hp/cid.......IOW, about the same or a little more than the first generation of NHRA Pro Stockers were making back in the early 70's. At that level, you'll probably need at least 20-ish psi of boost and either race gas, octane additive, or E85.

You're also gonna need forged pistons, T3/T4 or another bigger/better turbo, a header (avoid crack-prone eBay "Cheaders") or moderately-ported E6 exh man & 3-in exhaust, a good turbo cam (suggest consulting Bo @ Boport),  bigger injectors, upgraded f/pump, FMIC, and an aftermarket ECU (or re-flashing/tuning of yours).  Your '97 2.3 has 5.457" forged rods, which are up to the task, as long as you don't try to reduce lag too much (high boost at low RPM will often bend even good rods &/or crack cyl walls on production blocks). Speaking of which, I recommend filling your block with block-filler to about halfway thru the w/pump hole (obviously, you need to use some sorta "plug" in that hole during filling).  5.457

You'll need to decide whether you're gonna retain the dual-plug head and manifold (yours are the late versions ~ prone to "lifting" along one side, due to enlarged coolant passageways) ~ OR, switch to an early DPH or single-plug head and manifold, which are more popular performance-wise. No matter the head style, it'll probably need at least some mild porting. Other things that will impact your car's performance are overall weight AND traction. Obviously, the lighter the vehicle, the less power is needed for a given level of acceleration. Your '97 Ranger will probably fall somewhere in the 3000-3200lb range ~ but, I've seen 'em "lightened" down to 2700-2800-ish. My '87 is less than 3K, but I've still got lots of things to remove/lighten. Traction and consistency of launch depends a lot on the type of transmission (auto vs stick). 

If stick, you'll need a good clutch and "clutch management" (skill)  ~ whereas you'll probably need a higher-stall converter with an auto. Your truck probably has either an M50D stick OR an A4LD-based auto (4R44E, 5R55E, etc.). I'm not a fan of either trans, altho they have sufficed for many. A "beefed" C-4 auto or T-5 stick is typically used for a street/strip vehicle in your anticipated power range. Rangers are leaf-sprung, so I recommend "Cal-Trac" traction bars (store bought or homemade) and some sticky rear tires with 4.11 to 4.56 diff gears (you could go lower [numerically higher] if only a track car). Also, when launching with good traction.....you may find the need for an 8.8 diff (if not equipped already), to prevent requiring a tow home from the track. <eek> Soooo.......how deep are your pockets?? <shrug>

[DangerousRangerous]

.
350hp and mid/low 12's is easy and comparably cheaper with a V-ate (LS, SBC, SBF, etc.) ~ BUT.....it's a lofty goal for a 4-cyl engine with only 140cid. That's well over 2hp/cid.......IOW, about the same or a little more than the first generation of NHRA Pro Stockers were making back in the early 70's. At that level, you'll probably need at least 20-ish psi of boost and either race gas, octane additive, or E85.

You're also gonna need forged pistons, T3/T4 or another bigger/better turbo, a header (avoid crack-prone eBay "Cheaders") or moderately-ported E6 exh man & 3-in exhaust, a good turbo cam (suggest consulting Bo @ Boport),  bigger injectors, upgraded f/pump, FMIC, and an aftermarket ECU (or re-flashing/tuning of yours).  Your '97 2.3 has forged 5.457" forged rods, which are up to the task, as long as you don't try to reduce lag too much (high boost at low RPM will often bend even good rods &/or crack cyl walls on production blocks. Speaking of which, I recommend filling your block with block-filler to about halfway thru the w/pump hole (obviously, you need to use some sorta "plug" in that hole during filling).  5.457

You'll need to decide whether you're gonna retain the dual-plug head and manifold (yours are the late versions ~ prone to "lifting" along one side, due to enlarged coolant passageways) ~ OR, switch to an early DPH or single-plug head and manifold, which are more popular performance-wise. No matter the head style, it'll probably need at least some mild porting. Other things that will impact your car's performance are overall weight AND traction. Obviously, the lighter the vehicle, the less power is needed for a given level of acceleration. Your '97 Ranger will probably fall somewhere in the 3000-3200lb range ~ but, I've seen 'em "lightened" down to 2700-2800-ish. My '87 is less than 3K, but I've still got lots of things to remove/lighten. Traction and consistency of launch depends a lot on the type of transmission (auto vs stick). 

If stick, you'll need a good clutch and "clutch management" (skill)  ~ whereas you'll probably need a higher-stall converter with an auto. Your truck probably has either an M50D stick OR an A4LD-based auto (4R44E, 5R55E, etc.). I'm not a fan of either trans, altho they have sufficed for many. A "beefed" C-4 auto or T-5 stick is typically used for a street/strip vehicle in your anticipated power range. Rangers are leaf-sprung, so I recommend "Cal-Trac" traction bars (store bought or homemade) and some sticky rear tires with 4.11 to 4.56 diff gears (you could go lower [numerically higher] if only a track car). Also, when launching with good traction.....you may find the need for an 8.8 diff (if not equipped already), to prevent requiring a tow home from the track. <eek> Soooo.......how deep are your pockets?? <shrug>

That was unbelievably informative and I appreciate it! Sounds like that 350/ runs 12s number would require a few more compromises than I’d want to make. Not interested in using anything beyond pump gas, and a filled block isn’t something I want to do either. 

I’m glad to hear that the stock rods are forged. I’d heard mixed info on those.

Would o-ringing help those head gaskets stay put on my late model 8 plug?

When does my 8 plug intake manifold become a choke point?

I’m thinking the headliners of my set up would be: 

Some turbo/forged pistons

Stock rods

HY35 or T3/T4 50 trim with a decent flowing manifold

Sct tuning (slot maf and ~60lb injectors, 255 pump)

Explorer lsd 8.8

Boport recommended cam

TBD on the head, and that’s fine for now

Probably use the M5OD (with stronger clutch) at first and decide its fate after putting some miles on it. 

Appreciate your help as I figure out a workable first draft of this little project of mine.

[TurboRay]

DangerousRangerous

1. Not interested in using anything beyond pump gas, and a filled block isn’t something I want to do either. 
   
2. I’m glad to hear that the stock rods are forged. I’d heard mixed info on those.
   
3. Would o-ringing help those head gaskets stay put on my late model 8 plug?
   
4. When does my 8 plug intake manifold become a choke point?
   ■ I’m thinking the headliners of my set up would be:
   
5. Some turbo/forged pistons
   
6. Stock rods
   
7. HY35 or T3/T4 50 trim with a decent flowing manifold
   
8. Sct tuning (slot maf and ~60lb injectors, 255 pump)
   
9. Explorer lsd 8.8
   
10. Boport recommended cam
    

1. E85 IS "pump gas", lol. OTOH, if yer talkin' about 91-92 octane gasoline, the amount of boost and ignition advance you can run will be limited.
   
2. ALL Lima rods (N/A and turbo) were forged and identical until '98, when Ford switched to compressed powdered metal. In 1995, they also switched from 5.2047" length to 5.457". BTW......don't bother with whatup gee-whiz rod bolts unless you plan on winding the snot outta yer motor. Fancy $$ rod bolts only help in "tension" ~ not in compression
   
3. The reason the late DPH "lifts", thus reducing gasket clamping & causing blown h/gaskets along the intake side, is b/c of the long areas of unsupported deck surface adjacent to chambers 2, 3, & 4........due to elongated/extra-large coolant passageways. I doubt that O-ringing would help, BUT......DUNNO! I have no idea why Ford decided to make that change, especially since the stock late DPH's are the best-flowing of ALL production iron heads. If you insist on retaining yours, I suggest using a Cometic MLS h/gasket and "relieved" (necked-down) studs, since they generally have a little bit of "elasticity", thus a better ability to retain sealing during the dimensional/clamping changes that occur with heating/cooling cycles ~ as opposed to composite or copper gaskets and straight-shank studs. 
   
4. I don't know that anyone has ever flow-checked a late DPH intake (Bo?). I DO know that Matt Svenson was making nearly 500hp with a mild "stage-1 Boported" early .DPH and a virtually STOCK intake manifold (I say "virtually" b/c I think he port-matched the last 1-in of the runners where they met the head). Matt's head is currently for sale, BTW = LINK.  BUT.......Matt also used a PiMPx ECU, E85, an $$$ EFR turbo, & a $$$ custom 1-1/4" Boport S/S header.
   
5. The OEM forged turbo pistons won't work with your late/longer rods, sooo.......if you wanna retain 'em, you're gonna need a new set of custom aftermarket pistons with a shorter compression height ~ possibly costing as much as $1K, with rings & pins! <eek> If you wanna save some money, AND if your stock-size bores are still good/round, I suggest getting a good set of used OEM turbo piston/rod assemblies ($100-200, depending upon skirt condition). They'll fit right into your cylinders and bolt up to your crank. Just make sure the ring grooves aren't worn wide and use new rings.
   
6. (see #5)
   
7. Your two turbo choices are fine (I would also add a Holset HE341 to your list of options). A MILDLY-ported E6 OEM manifold will also work just fine, but you're gonna need a 3-in DP and exhaust system. You might even get by with a stock T3 turbo (I'm not positive, but I THINK they're good to around 20-22psi w/o excessively heating the charge air.....DUNNO!).
   
8. Your tuning choice is probably good ~ Did you read the FB post I linked? Jeff Estaban or Chris Salmon (among others) can apparently tune your existing ECU remotely. I'm not sure how that's done, but I imagine some sorta modem & software is required. <shrug>
   
9. ASSuming you have a 7.5 diff, I suggest using it for the time being, altho you MAY wind up needing a beefier 8.8 later on, depending upon the stickiness of your tires and the severity of your launch. Ford deemed them "worthy" of the power achieved by the early carbed 302 Mustang GT's. If you install the suggested "Cal-Tracs on yer 7.5 and later switch to an 8.8 ~ they'll swap right over! 
   
10. YES......Bo will steer you in the right direction for cam and spring choices. He can probably answer your questions about any flow limitations of the late DPH intake manifold, too. BTW, your stamped-steel roller followers will only work with a late DPH, having the smallish 7mm valve stems. If you wind up using a 4-plug or early DP head, you'll need the earlier investment-cast roller followers made for 11/32 valve stems.
    

• I would also add an FMIC to your list of "headliners".  GOOD LUCK!  <thumbup>

[Howard]

You can also go the route I went, which was a 200R4 automatic, which can be built to handle 750 HP.
My Transmission swap build is on this site