[Noname]

do you have to run water through the turbo if it has the lines or can you just plug them?

[pacwest]

You don't "have" to, but I would recommend it.

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85 XR4Ti x3
http://pacwestmerkur.com http://cosworth.dhs.org

[Turbopit]

nope, there is little to no proof that the wet T3's last any longer than the dry T3's. Some models of turbos like the IHI do seem to make good use of their water supply.

Originally posted by teamperformance:
do you have to run water through the turbo if it has the lines or can you just plug them?

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84 Capri RS Turbo to be replaced, looking for a coupe!
(stock block, worked head, "custom" cam & header/downpipe, TEC II engine management, no intercooler (yet), etc...) 267 rwhp before the TEC II and any tuning with no IC and only 10 psi. New numbers coming.

86 Mustang GT Convertible
(clutch quad, 3.73's, AL DS, MM C/C plates, FRPP "C" springs, MAC catback, broken motor mount)

[TurboRay]

And you don't have to plug the holes either, unless you're worried that some little spider might die an ugly death after warmup. [Image: smile.gif]

C'ya - RAY

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Former 2.3T Courier (carbed/blow-thru) & soon turbo Ranger

[RPSVO]

If u run w/o the water, then u may want to run a good full synthetic oil. They generally have a much higher flashpoint than conventional oil. Which means it is less prone to burning up when passing thru a hot bearing, especially on shutdown if u forget to let the engine idle.

I religiously let my '84 (no water cooling) idle at least 30sec b4 shutting down. I had her up to 154k mi. I always used full synthetics.

Good Luck

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'86 SVO Stock exc for Racer Walsh Ultralite Adj Cam Sprkt & Mallory TFI coil, Reg Bosch Plat & K&N replcmnt - 161k mi, runs strong

- Had '84 SVO for 90k - Stock except GW camber plates, relocated oil filter (for 1qt), Bosch Plat, K&N rplcmnt & Mallory TFI coil
- Had '85 TC 5 spd - Stock, Bosch Plat & Mallory TFI coil
- Had '74 Nova - Teenage Hot Rod, 350 ci, Edlbk Perf Pls cam & manfld, Comp Cams 1.6 roller tipped rckr arms, Mallory Promstr coil, std 1-5/8" hdrs, no traction
- Had '77 V8 Monza - real poor man's SVO, stock 305 w/ dual exh, no cat, fun - greatest handbrake-turner ever made
- UTA Formula SAE '93-'95,'97 & '99. 1995 Champion

[Turbopit]

Ditto

Originally posted by RPSVO:


I religiously let my '84 (no water cooling) idle at least 30sec b4 shutting down. I had her up to 154k mi. I always used full synthetics.

Good Luck

[67King]

I would also assume (which might be my first mistake) that the water would transfer a little bit of heat away from the exhaust, meaning that the hot housing will not add more to the heat generated by the turbo, itself.

IOW.....I'd use the lines if you can.

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89 XR4Ti, purchased 2/9/02, and not quite running... Go fast goodies awaiting installation: T-5, LA2, Audi Intercooler, Mitsu BOV, Ranger roller.....more coming
'67 GTO
2000 Harley-Davidson edition F-150

[N2O88]

The lines are also supposed to help allow you to just shut it down after full throttle runs instead of letting it idle down for 10-30 seconds or so. The water will continue to cool the turbo down when the car is stopped while oil MAY cook. Its up to you really....how much trouble is it to route the water lines or do you want an extra place to burst holes???

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-Paul North-

'88 XR4Ti- 18psi no intercooler with bypass valve, 3" exhaust, full suspension etc.

'88 Mustang Gt- boss block 347, .688 solid roller, TEA canfield heads (306/250 @.700) etc

[Turbopit]

Yes, that is the theory, but that doesn't mean that is what happens inside a T3. It certainly isn't hurting anything, but on a non-stock set up it's just a pain to have one more thing to work around.

Originally posted by N2O88:
The lines are also supposed to help allow you to just shut it down after full throttle runs instead of letting it idle down for 10-30 seconds or so. The water will continue to cool the turbo down when the car is stopped while oil MAY cook.

[Kartwheel]

Here is what Graham Goode says about the water lines on their Cosworth RS500 turbos:

The GGR RS 500's didn't use water cooling for the bearing housings, why not?
Water cooling of the bearing housing is a good idea for a road car. When the turbo is operating at high boost pressures, the exhaust housing can reach temperatures in excess of 950°C. Water cooling the bearing housing helps to prevent this temperature being transferred into the engine oil. Also, by stabilising the overall temperature, it is not always necessary to allow the turbo to cool before turning the engine off. On our race cars, we always monitored the turbo temperature, and would not turn off the engine until this was below 450°C. In a race environment, the water-cooling pipes were considered as a potential, and unnecessary water leak.

Sounds like if you let the heat dissipate for a few seconds before you turn off the car you should have no worries.


Brian